It should but I was also wondering if they might have sold her an undersize battery.
There are a lot of things that can cause slow cranking, for example a broken ring, spun bearing, timing gears that have jumped a tooth and so on.
But she did say the MAP sensor was buzzing and I have seen a bad or disconnected MAP sensor put out very black smoke when idling after the truck first started.

Some items under the hood will also buzz if they are getting low voltage to them and this could keep it from starting.

 

I'm going to replace the map sensor since it made a loud humming sound from it when I tried to start the truck.

The positive cable was replaced when the starter and solenoid was replaced. I purchased the solenoid from Kragen....was thinking about getting another one in case it's bad too. I replaced it once before, got the truck started....then ended up having the same problem again...."sounding like an almost dead batter". The starter was bad to begin with....would have to crawl under the truck and bang on it in order to get it to start. The same with the battery, it was old and no good.

I'm just at a loss with this darn thing......a friend of mine said that the reason it won't start is because *It's a Ford* and that even Ford wouldn't know why it won't start....that Ford's Suck. Would love to prove em wrong!

Any other ideas.....besides having it towed to some shop that's gonna gouge me since I'm a woman without a clue as to what's wrong with it. Am still thinkin' about loosin' up the lockdown nut and retarding the timing by backing off the distributor. Also, I know there's a part, not a timing belt as it doesn't have one....could that possible be the problem. I bought the part a few years ago as a mechanic in a shop said that that was what was wrong with it back then.......it wasn't. I still have it, though thoroughly rusted and probably can't be used, but not sure. Anyhow, any and all ideas are greatly appreciated....Thank you all for your help.
Jackie

 

Jackie, try this if you can. Line up the timing mark on the balancer with 0 on the timing tab. Then pull the distributer cap and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 tower in the cap, or exactly 180 degrees off. It should be pointing pretty close to the tower when at dead zero on the crank. Obviously it will be a little off, since you have timing settings built in, but it will be close. If its closer to the next tower, or way off lined up, your timing has slipped, and I'm guessing thats possible if a previous mechanic mentioned timing components. Another thing to check would be if the rotor turns when you turn over the motor.

I'm going to go sleep for awhile, but I'll check again when I get to work tonight.

 

I'm replacing the starter solenoid since I think it may have gotten shorted out due to a ground wire being grounded to the truck body. Hopefully that will help the starting problem. The cause originally was that I'd have problems starting it...it seemed as tho the starter was dragging and then it would finally start. But, after I got it started and drove it.....when I turned off the truck and then tried to start it, it wouldn't start...it would be as if the battery was drained. After it cooled then it would usually start until recently it wouldn't start at all. I'm going crazy trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with this thing. Maybe I just need to sell it. It's a nice truck, it's lifted...has new tires. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.......Thanks again for your help.

Jackie

 

If you follow the negative cable from the battery, where does it go?

 

I'm not sure actually and I physically can't climb underneath the truck to find out. At this point, I don't think it's the battery. I think maybe it's an ignition problem. I replaced the starter solenoid and all I'm getting is a clicking/humming sound coming from somewhere on the driver side firewall area. I think I just wanna blow the damn thing up. Even if I have it towed to some automotive place nearby, it'll most likely cost me an arm and a leg to have them check it out....and I don't have either to spare.

 

When my truck wouldnt start I replaced the solenoid,actuator cam,ignition switch,and tumbler and I still got nothing so I finally figured out my ignition wire to the solenoid wasnt getting current so that lead me to the NSS and found out that was bad but I didnt feel like replacing that so I did the good ol riggin and put a push button on er and she started right up so maybe that will give ya somewhere else to look I hope Goodluck -Scot-

 

Thanks for the suggestion....how did you go about putting in a pushbutton start on it? Could you walk me through it step by step? Is it possible to put one of the truck or should a stick of dynamite do the trick LOL

 

I ran a wire from the top small post on the solenoid to inside the cab to one terminal on the pushbutton then from the other terminal on the pushbutton I ran a short wire and tapped into my cig. lighter fuse for the 12v instead of running another wire through the firewall and all I do is turn the key forward to the start position then hit the pushbutton then off I go.... -Scot-

 

Try this, pull the coil wire off and see if it cranks OK.

 

i had a similiar problem with a trans am i had and after replacing battery, alternator, and i think the starter, found out somehow my ground wire from the battery was connected to the frame rather than the motor, i'm thinking that could be your problem, my car would fire right up cold, but if it was warm from already being run, it would drag really bad. you could have a combination of problems, but 1st make sure the ground from the battery is connected to the motor NOT the body or frame.

 

On her 6 the negative (-) (ground) cable from the battery should go straight to a starter mounting bolt that screws into the bell housing. You should be able to see this cable run from under the hood.

 

yeah, that's where mine is on my 95, i'll bet that was not hooked back up when the starter was replaced.

 

You may be right about the frame.
For some reason there are a lot of people out there that think the frame needs to be grounded. I do not know where they get this idea.
Grounding the frame serves no purpose unless you have added some after market thing and you want to use the frame for a ground return. The factory ground straps should be enough for radio static. Some of the negative cables on trucks have a center ground lug that bolt to the frame for trailer use.

 

Ok....I had the truck towed to Pep Boys. The replaced the alternator the other day, I went and payed for it and went to leave and it wouldn't start. It sat there for a day cause they needed to do a flow chart diagnostic on it to try to find the problem and the mechanic that did it wasn't there yesterday. So, this morning they call me and say that the ignition module is bad, the serpintine belt was cracked really bad, changed the starter because they didn't like the way it looked (free), replaced the top radiator hose and said that that was gonna cost $370.00. Now they call me and say that the ECU is bad and that they have to order it and that it'll cost $210 for the part and $55 for the labor. They're supposed to order it and have it done Monday. I can't believe all of this. By the time all is said and done with what I already paid for it'll be about $900. I think this thing has the old AC system....is there anywhere or anyhow that I can get it charged up or am I gonna have to have the new system put in it....and if so, about how much does that cost? I'm dyin' here......really, I am. Thanks for everyone's help, I've really appreciated it. I hope this is the last of the problems with my truck....I love it but it's really killin' me here lol