Motor Rebuild in Stages
Motor Rebuild in Stages
I'm doing a 390 rebuild of my 360 that was pulled from the truck last year. It had 2 connecting rod bearings go bad and I was waiting until I had time and my 12 yr old boy could help. Well the time is now and I'm looking for advice on how best to do a little here and a little there. I still need to get my camshaft, lifters, springs and pistons. I guess pistons need to wait till I know what bore.
The info on rebuilding here is plentiful but one thing that I can't find is a plan on doing this rebuild in stages. What should I do first ,second, etc? For example, I have my block ready to go but should I wait on my camshaft purchase before I take it to the machine shop? I guess what I'm saying is there a better or more sensible way to proceed with the rebuild as I start taking things to the machine shop? I'm not in a real hurry but would like to keep from doing things twice if I can help it.
The info on rebuilding here is plentiful but one thing that I can't find is a plan on doing this rebuild in stages. What should I do first ,second, etc? For example, I have my block ready to go but should I wait on my camshaft purchase before I take it to the machine shop? I guess what I'm saying is there a better or more sensible way to proceed with the rebuild as I start taking things to the machine shop? I'm not in a real hurry but would like to keep from doing things twice if I can help it.
Last edited by scottlane; Apr 18, 2007 at 11:53 AM.
Stage 1 should be planning. Get everything figured out before you even touch the thing. Figure out what pistons you plan to use, cam, valvetrain, etc, and how it will all work together. I suggest a new thread for this if you dont already have one.
Stage 2 is disassemble the engine and take measurements. Existing bore diameter, etc. Look for anything that could cause you problems, like a spun main bearing, obvious cracking, sunken valve seats, etc.
Stage 3 is take it all up to the machine shop. Discuss with the owner of the machine shop your plans from stage 1, as he may be able to get your parts in kit form cheaper than you could otherwise get them. At this stage make sure the pistons you plan to use are available in the appropriate oversize the block will be bored to. Make sure to have the bottom end balanced.
Stage 4 is pick up your stuff and put it all back together.
Stage 5 is install it and tune it so it runs right.
Does that help?
Stage 2 is disassemble the engine and take measurements. Existing bore diameter, etc. Look for anything that could cause you problems, like a spun main bearing, obvious cracking, sunken valve seats, etc.
Stage 3 is take it all up to the machine shop. Discuss with the owner of the machine shop your plans from stage 1, as he may be able to get your parts in kit form cheaper than you could otherwise get them. At this stage make sure the pistons you plan to use are available in the appropriate oversize the block will be bored to. Make sure to have the bottom end balanced.
Stage 4 is pick up your stuff and put it all back together.
Stage 5 is install it and tune it so it runs right.
Does that help?
Helps a bunch. I am going by others recommendations here for some parts of this rebuild (Keith Black KB150 Pistons, Crane 343941 cam). I am keeping the original rocker arm assembly so I will still need to get pushrods - and whatever lifters and springs Crane recommends.
Fortunately the motor is in great shape except for the failed connecting rod bearings and the spun crankshaft. It only had 70K original miles on it.
I'll be talking to the machine shop next week to try and get things in order and set up.
Fortunately the motor is in great shape except for the failed connecting rod bearings and the spun crankshaft. It only had 70K original miles on it.
I'll be talking to the machine shop next week to try and get things in order and set up.
I take it that the best way to use the checking rod is to measure all of the cylinders with it and not just #1
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Discuss with the owner of the machine shop your plans from stage 1, as he may be able to get your parts in kit form cheaper than you could otherwise get them.

Sometimes, they can even get Crane cams and other performance stuff in that kit that their supplier puts together on the spot.




