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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:20 AM
  #1  
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My system

is in my sig. Figured I would make a link down here for those who dont go to the above part of the forum.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:31 PM
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I like the way you did the doors. I am planning a 3 way speaker set up for my doors and was going to FG them in, but, this kinda changes my mind...........back to the drawing board.

I did notice that there is a "hump" between the rear part of the door and the MDF. Is that sealed off, or an open spot?

How this is the wood that you used for the doors?

Thanks for any information that you have.

Jaime
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Thats pretty impressive.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by X-OvrDistortion
I like the way you did the doors. I am planning a 3 way speaker set up for my doors and was going to FG them in, but, this kinda changes my mind...........back to the drawing board.

I did notice that there is a "hump" between the rear part of the door and the MDF. Is that sealed off, or an open spot?

Jaime
Where is this hump? Link to the pic with it on please.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:15 PM
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so spl, have you doubled the weight of your car in the amount of equipment you have? lol also, have you got a reading on your new db range?

i have 2 audiobahn 10s and an audiobahn amp and i hit 145db here and won my class with it. i quit while i was ahead because my system is very small and there were not very many people there. i was very impressed with it

Matt
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Dang, your link is not working. But if you look at the picture of the door with it laying on it's side. You can see under the arm rest that there is a hump from where you cut the door.


How thick is the wood that you are using for the doors? I assume that you have to top of the door and the wood attached some how.

I am kind of thinking along the same line's. Except mine will be a 3 way active setup with the mid-bass going in a ported box, in the door. The tweet and the mid-range will sit where the stock speaker is.

Did I mention that you have done a good job on that install so far. I showed it to a couple of buddies, and they all said the same thing.

If you want, come over to www.carstereos.org and post up some pics there. We have a great photo gallery with "unlimited" space!!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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The link in my sig should be working now. The part I cut off by the handle has a little piece of wood with suede in it to close it off. Its actually not necessary because you cant see the suede insert covering the hole even from 15 feet back. They only way you can see it is if you look down under the armrest. So actually I could have just cut it off even and you would have never known there is a hole there. But I did the little insert there anyway. The insert is not in the door in the pic but as you can tell when the panel is on the door you cant even really tell the hole is there; and I took the picture below eye level. At eye level the insert is not visible.

The wood is 3/4" MDF. I was going to use 1/2" but I needed 3/4" to space the speakers far enough from the door so the back of the speakers does not hit the inside of the door. There is no wood on top of the panel supporting the OEM panel. Its not heavy enough to warrant such. Its only about 35 lbs. over stock. Fortunately the OEM panel uses a very good clipping system that allows you to add a lot of extra weight to the panels. They actually don’t use clips. They have slots on the back of the panel that lock into the door. These slots are strong and have no problem supporting the extra weight.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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Sorry for all the questions, but you have sparked a fire in me.

How did you connect the wood to the door? Did you simply just screw it to the panel you already have there or something different?

Do you have pictures of the door panel after you cut it for the wood?

Thanks man.

X
 
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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I screwed it from the back with many screws. With all the screws its stronger then the OEM panel so it wont come off without ripping the OEM panel to pieces. There is a pic of the OEM door panel in the first few pics in the link in my sig. However I had to keep the screws away from the hooks on the back of the panel. If I drove screws into the panel around the hooks it would pull the hooks back and they would not latch into the door properly. I found the easiest way to build a door panel is to build it on a piece of MDF and screw the MDF to the existing OEM panel after its done. That makes things a lot easier and more secure.

 

Last edited by SPL Tech; Apr 17, 2007 at 09:25 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I might give this a try this weekend.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 12:14 AM
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It will take more then a weekend to get it professional looking. Those panels took me two weeks. (workdays and weekends).
 
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 06:35 AM
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I should have said, I am gonna try to start it this weekend. I plan on having this all done in July. I have to build my amp rack, sub box, wire the whole thing up.......yep....and I will be doing most of this solo.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Updates man....with pics.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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Thumbs down

I cant. First time I posted pics admin got pised at me because apparently there were too many. Then I posted a link to my site with the pics on them and someone else got pised and sent me an email asking me not to. So apparently I am not aloud to show off my install.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SPL Tech
I cant. First time I posted pics admin got pised at me because apparently there were too many. Then I posted a link to my site with the pics on them and someone else got pised and sent me an email asking me not to. So apparently I am not aloud to show off my install.

Bwahahhaaa.......weak. Well, you can come over to CSo and post picks. I wanna see what you have done since I am installing my stuff soon. I have a good idea of what to do because of your pictures. Heck, I will PM you with my contact info, then you can lead this horse to water.
 
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