or until she stumbles into this forum looking fro some answer and finds your post. lol

 

I'm not surprised she knows something's up by the way you're pacing... We women just know these things about our husbands! If she's a true Ford gal she'll like the mods as much as you do! She just may not show it

 

I tried hiding my code reader/tuner from her for about a year, when all of the sudden my cel light popped on while we were driving and without thinking I pulled it out from behind my seat and plugged it in,= big mistake- She was mad because I have hot rodded the truck, mad that I lied to her, and mad that now I might have damaged the truck. It turned out to be an overboost code, no big deal. Now if I would have got the overboost eliminator fitting it would not have happened, so I guess I learned that I should have went all out the first time.

 

Kwik, did you take any photos of the lumbar repair? My lumbar **** turns, but nothing happens.

 

How did you reroute your CCV? Not like I won't see it in a few days, but I'm curious what you changed anyway.

 

I must have been on crack when i routed my CCV like this for my stacks:



You can see it creates a HUGE low spot, and i removed the pipe from the elbow, plugged the hole with an accuseal clamp (How's that for ingenuitive) and relocated the pipe in the horizontal connector piece about 6" before the flex pipe. Now to get a stick welder that knows what he's doing...

Last night i had about a 4" circle of oil on the floor from just the last 2' of the hose dangling towards the ground.

 

I didn't think to until the job was done.
It's such an easy job that I don't think they are necessary.
Open the drivers door and you'll see the trim around the bottom of the seat is held on with a combination of Phillips head screws and one plastic retainer on the very back. That is the hardest part, getting that retainer out.
What works best is a fork shaped tool that gets underneath the plastic trim and then you can force it out of it's hole. The retainer looks like a fat plastic nail with bristles on the nail shaft. Those bristles are what holds the retainer in it's hole. Get the fork under the shoulder of the trim and not just the retainer head as you'll have to put enough force on it to strip the head right off. The trim will provide enough support to be able to apply enough pressure to the fitting and it will work it's way out of the hole.
The head of the adjustment **** is the same idea. Pull straight out on it with a LOT of force and it pops off. Underneath it you will find two phillips head screws that hold the adjuster in place. Remove the screws and push the adjuster inside the seat. Go underneath the seat and pull it out so you can examine the adjuster. You will find that it is cylinderical in shape with a slot on one side where the cable goes in. Turn it so that is adjusted all the way down and then you can get a small screwdriver underneath the shoulder of the cable and it will slide up and off of it's shoulder. Turn it 90 degrees so it is perpendicular to the round housing and pull the cable head out of the hole. You can see that the cable goes up to the seat back via the passenger side of the seat.
To remove the seat back is silly simple. Remove the two bolts on the seat angle adjuster and it slides off the pin on the passenger side of the seat back and you lift the whole assembly out.
Lay the seat back on a suitable surface and examine the bottom of the seat back. You will see that it is split on the bottom and held together with two black plastic groove sort of things that are interlocked together. Separate those two things and peel the upholstory up toward the top of the seat. There are two velcro pads in the middle of the seat back to serve as anchors so you will need to reach inside the upholstory and separate them. You don't have to remove it all the way, halfway will do.
Once that is done, look on the back side and you will see this plastic rib affiar. The cable hooks to the plastic ribs in the top center position. That is the weak link and you will find a crack in the reiforcement at the top of the rib where it broke through. All I did was get a retainer that fits over the cable end and won't let it through and put it on top of the rib assembly, then attach the cable end to that. I also put a large washer underneath the hook at the bottom that holds the bowden tube (the cable sheith) on the bottom of the assembly for reinforcement there as well.
Now if you are a short guy like me, 5' 8", my legs are pretty short. I was having problems with my calves rubbing the front of the seat as I operate the pedals. It was a real safety concern IMO because it was interfering with the operation of the truck. Taller people don't have this problem because thier legs are long enough to where this is not an issue. I added some padding between the ribs and the inside of the seat padding to push out the seat back a little. It fixed the problem.
From there you just have to put it back together the same way you took it apart. The hardest part is getting the retainer strips back together because you have to pull it all together.
Once you get it assembled back onto the seat, the cable end will install easily into the adjuster if you put it straight in, then rotate it the 90 degrees and put the shoulder back into it's place. The cable end wanted to get stuck and bend the head, so be careful that it won't do that.

 

One other thing. The two retainers on the front of the trim for the seat bottom. Leave those alone and go underneath and remove the two phillips head screws right behind the retainers. Much easier that way.

 

Have you been taking typing lessons from Ernest?

 

LOL, good one. A picture is truly worth a thousand words.