Home-Made Bumper
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 718
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nice and simple.
got any pics of the mounting?
also of the inside snap of the hitch and tabs? From what I see, i think you just welded the shackle tabs to the bumper, not the frame, or mount to the frame? I did the same thing, and i'll be pulling from the bumper, rather then the frame. I did it different on my rear bumper...
got any pics of the mounting?
also of the inside snap of the hitch and tabs? From what I see, i think you just welded the shackle tabs to the bumper, not the frame, or mount to the frame? I did the same thing, and i'll be pulling from the bumper, rather then the frame. I did it different on my rear bumper...
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 566
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
The tabs for my shackles were just welded to the front of the C channel, near the frame rails. I have vowed to be pulled out and only pull out one truck at a time. If a 1/2" tab welded to the bumper is not strong enough, then I have no business pulling/being pulled by whatever it may be. I would much rather have to fix or rebuild my bumper than deal with a truck with a stretched frame and doors that won't line up as result.
Here's a picture of one of my mounts... I made an L bracket with the flanges with the holes on the current bracket, and the other side parallel and adjacent to the frame rail. Then I welded the width of the 3/8" bracket to the C channel.
This is a similar picture that shows my reciever a little better. I had the option to have the reciever stick out a good 6-8 inches so I could slide the pin through, or I could mount it close to flush and have to reach behind the bumper to utilize the pin holes. I chose the latter because the first option would just be fugly. It was welded all the way around on both the inside and outside of the bumper. I didn't leave much length after the pin hole (1 1/2" maybe) because I saw no need for it.
Here's a picture of one of my mounts... I made an L bracket with the flanges with the holes on the current bracket, and the other side parallel and adjacent to the frame rail. Then I welded the width of the 3/8" bracket to the C channel.
This is a similar picture that shows my reciever a little better. I had the option to have the reciever stick out a good 6-8 inches so I could slide the pin through, or I could mount it close to flush and have to reach behind the bumper to utilize the pin holes. I chose the latter because the first option would just be fugly. It was welded all the way around on both the inside and outside of the bumper. I didn't leave much length after the pin hole (1 1/2" maybe) because I saw no need for it.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Western US
Originally Posted by Skinsfan6
. I would much rather have to fix or rebuild my bumper than deal with a truck with a stretched frame and doors that won't line up as result.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 566
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
Originally Posted by wileec
The only problem with that logic is that if your mount givs way under stress it is going to go through whatever is on the other end of the pull. That is a dangerous situation. Not that I am questioning your mounting skill the bumper looks sweet. Have seen a few orginized trail runs that will not allow welded tow points. Seems like they would be stronger but I guess it is hard to tell unless you saw the welding done, weather or not the tow point ios going to come off and kill someone.
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