So, I kinda gave up on my '86 not starting and bit the bullet and handed it over to Ford to fix it. It wasn't registering any pressure off the lift pump and kind of leads me to believe there is air getting in somewhere. So, I begin my journey taking backroads to the dealer as far as I can white smoking all the way. The truck has no power and can make about 40mph- tops. I have to get on the interstate for a mile or so to get across the river. Yes, I was a bit of a road hazard for a while there. Anyway, I made it.
Ford's service advisor tells me that the GP sending unit needs replacing. I say no problem, go ahead. But, what about the lack of power and the smoke? He trys to tell me it goes back to the GP unit and that is why. At this point I think he's full of crap and say "fine, take it out after the repair and see how it runs" (because I'm not going down the interstate at 40mph again). He says he will and let me know Monday.

Am I wrong to think he's incorrect on the diagnosis?

 

I can't see how a bad glow plug system can affect the performance once the truck is warmed up.

I have a feeling that the performance issue is related to the fuel system.

 

Hmmm, My guess is if your not getting any pressure off the lift pump it's shot or you have a cracked line between your tank and pump. Either way your starving the IP which has to build enough pressure to open each injector. If it is starved your timing is going to be way off with inadequate pressure to open the injector it's just dribbling in off time. Would have been better to have the old girl towed instead of forcing it to run. IP's don't like to be starved and the raw fuel washing your cylinder walls is not a good thing either.

Fuel delivery sounds like the problem child. Hopefully the rest was not damaged while enroute to the dealership.

 

Sounds like it needs a new lift pump or you have serious air intrusion problems.

Is the stock water seperator still in line?
That was a great place for air on the 86 and older trucks.

Glow plugs and the controller have nothing to do with low power.
It should normally never come on after the engine is running.

 

TJC what turned out to be the problem with your truck? Did the stealer fix it for you?
Please give us an update.

I have had the same problem with mine since I bought it although not as bad.
It is driveable but kind of craps out at 50-55 mph, I finally was able to find a fuel pressure gauge so I am going to test the lift pump pressure and flow.

 

No, the dealer couldn't fix it. The technician really didn't know what the problem was and was going straight from the manual. Then, they said that they no longer had the tool to dynamically time the IP anyway. To be honest, I think they were really happy to see the truck leave the lot.
I got some good advice from the site and will give the IP an adjustment myself "by ear", as they say. This still doesn't explain why it won't start on it's own without a little starting fluid. But, as was discussed I believe it is air intrusion in the line going to the tank and will look at that myself as well.
I guess I'm a little disappointed. I am no mechanic and thought that when I bought this truck I would have plenty of help from -gulp- the dealer if there was something I couldn't figure out. It's frustrating that the manufacturer of a product doesn't know how to work on it any longer.I thought this engine would be like Ford Diesel 101 for mechanics. I guess all the mechanics that worked on these are now on this site. Oh well, I guess I'm ranting now, sorry.
I was looking for a local injection/diesel shop to bring it to, but am having little luck with that. So, I'm giving her a go myself. That's the latest.

TJC

 

You are probably better off that they didn't work on it, they would have charged a fortune and probably screwed it all up. From what I have read on these forums it sounds like about half of the diesel shops don't know how to work on these IDI's either.

There seem to be a lot of people on here having more or less the same problems we are having. These forums are the best thing going.

I did a filter change and my return lines. The lines and O rings were hard and cracked. Now she can sit for a week and fire right up and run smooth, not much smoke either.

I still have the flutter at high speed and I am sure a lack of power although she does roll along pretty good. I made a 400 mile run and a 160 mile run. She will smooth out pretty good at 70 but sucks fuel. I would like to run 55-62 and would eventually like to pull a trailer.

Tom

 

Dont mess with the timing yet. Change the lift pump, if that's what you've determined to be the problem.

A bad lift pump diaphram can allow the fuel to drain back, causing hard starts, smoke, and possibly filling the crankcase with fuel.

 

At the schrader valve on the fuel filter remove the valve core and install a fuel pressure gauge.
You should have about 4 to 7 PSI pressure when cranking the engine.
Now remove the gauge and route the fuel into a container.
You should get a minimum of 1/3 pint of fuel in 10 seconds of cranking the engine.

If either of the above tests are failed, you need a new lift pump.
If you pass both tests, the problem is somewhere else.

 

that is not what i got from the dealer i called to get my timing set and the diesel man there said there is no timing on a diesel ummm i said so if you cant plug it up you cant fix and hung up the phone

 

Call your local diesel injection shop. Most are run by old timers, that can still work on these rigs.

 

lift pump and if still then lets all look at the tank switch this is also a week point that we all seem to overlook sometimes

 

What type of fuel pump is on it?Check the fuel lines on the drivers side under the door/fender.They might look like there on,but after years of use they come loose.Its also a good spot for some one to steal your fuel if the truck was parked for some time..If you have hose clamps go around and check them.Make shure there all tight.I had the same problem two years ago.All white smoke then it stalls.I smelt the diesel fuel just didnt know were from.