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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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Question No crank when wet

Whenever I drive my truck in the rain, whether it is for 2 miles, or it sits outside for 15-30 min, it won't turn over. The wipers, radio, lights all work.

There is a melted gash on the wire that goes to the starter from the silenoid(?) that I saw the other day, I'm going to replace that this weekend, will that fix my problem? Also, what gauge wire is it?

This is for my '89 F-250 in my sig.

Thanks
Norman
 
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Troy Bredthauer
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check the wires at the starter. with the key in crank position, the big wire and the little wire should both have bat. voltage on their posts. if they do and it wont crank replace the starter. make sure the starter is tight to the bell housing for good ground. if one of the two wires is not hot, write back. make sure you have a good ground from bat. to engine before doing this test.
 

Last edited by Troy Bredthauer; Apr 12, 2007 at 09:45 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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Just because there is 12 volts at the big wire on the starter, when key is in the crank position doesn't mean there is enough current at the starter connection to run the starter. A wire corroded inside the insulation, or a dirty connection will pass 12 volts to run a meter, but sure won't run the starter.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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Troy Bredthauer
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to f250 farmboy Trust me
 
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Troy Bredthauer
to f250 farmboy Trust me
Every time you make a post I am amazed at your lack of knowledge about the old technology that is used in most engine. You are a legend in your own mind.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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Troy Bredthauer
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to bear 45 70, yes i agree there alot of things that i dont know, thats one reason i joined this site, to further my knowledge. I work on cars for a living however and have had my own shop for 10 yrs. as far as the original question posed by f250farmboy goes if there is a bad connection between the starter and where it gets its power from the wire will go dead as soon as the key is placed in the start pos. this is a fact. if in the future you would like to argue then say something inteligent
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Troy Bredthauer
to bear 45 70, yes i agree there alot of things that i dont know, thats one reason i joined this site, to further my knowledge. I work on cars for a living however and have had my own shop for 10 yrs. as far as the original question posed by f250farmboy goes if there is a bad connection between the starter and where it gets its power from the wire will go dead as soon as the key is placed in the start pos. this is a fact. if in the future you would like to argue then say something inteligent
Well, when you've done it for about another 20 years you might just have as much experience as I have. I retired 4 years ago. I also know that to give someone an exact answer to a problem over the Internet without having seen the equipment yourself is not only foolish but irresponsible. For one thing you are spending someone else money without giving the recourse to recover that money when you are wrong. Of course, again you show your lack of knowledge and experience by make foolish statements in your last sentence. Theory says yes, but I've seen real like make it a lie.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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Ok break it up you two!

Just for the hell of it, I did what Troy said to do and here's what I got:
At the battery: 12.45V
At the starter with key in "start" and clutch depressed: 10.1V

I'm definatley going to replace the cable going to the starter. Now without arguing, what gauge is this wire and where can I get it?

Norman
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Auto part store carry them since they do crap out. The larger the wire you get the better in my opinion. Larger wires can handle more amperage without melting the shielding or wire strands. I use 2 guage starter wires, a little overkill but it works like a champ.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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There's probably a 4 gauge wire there now, going to 2 or 00 would be a good idea. But from your test I would suspect the starter is bad. Wouldn't hurt to pull it and have it tested. 10 volts should run the starter, slow crank maybe but should make it at least try to turn the engine over.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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I now have some pics in my gallery for you guys to see the cable. It is 4 gauge and I'm going tomorrow to get a new, bigger cable. Hopefully this fixes it. And if my satrter is going bad, I hope it lasts untill this summer when I pull the engine out for some cosmetic reasons, than would be a perfect time to replace/paint the starter.

Thanks for everything.
Norman
 
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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I have decided to remove the starter to have it tested at autozone. How many bolts hold the starter in? I see one at the bottom and what looks like an alignment stud at top and thats it.

If that "stud" is supposed to be a bolt, I'm done.

And does anyone have a picture/drawing of a starter?


Thanks
Norman
 
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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two bolts, one goes into the starter from the front and the other from the back, you might even think its a bell housing bolt except the head is smaller. before taking the starter out, get it wet or whatever so that it wont crank, check your wires like we talked, if there hot, have somone hold the key in start pos. and bang on the starter if it starts to crank, replace the starter. the problem with bench testing an innermitten problem is that once you drop the starter twice geting it out it will probably test good
 
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Well, I figured it out yesterday morning and I took it to Autozone to have it checked. The first time, it failed, the second time, it passed, so I just replaced it.Now it turns over quicker and it even sounds stronger.

The reason the wire melted was because whoever put the new cable in, put it right next to the manifold.

When I replace it, I'm going to switch sides.'

Thanks for everything
Norman
 
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