no clue off hand... its a 340 watt max amp

 

Yikes! That's a lot of power. You must be running a big bass unit?

Power = Current * Voltage so, Power/Voltage = Current or 340/12 = 28.33 AMPS. According to the wire chart, you might need 10 guage wire to handle that kind of power.

http://www.skingco.com/portable_powe...size_chart.htm

 

uhh yeh thats why the Amp power kits come with 10 gauge wire. im only poweringing 2 subwoofers so that puts 170 watts to each sub.

i found a hole to comec through as well, i believe its where the trailer brake assist? would be... not to sure, its to the left of the brake booster.

 

I used the rubber plugs behind the seat for my amp so I didn't have to drill anything. They worked fine...just cut a slit in them. I didn't really care if the wire runs under the cab or not.

 

neXtras
Im pretty sure I know why your insisting on the full battery access .... It would be to do with at least one o these 2 things .... 1., Noise supression from the altenator which could be eliminated with a simple low resistance high amp resistor along with a diode and capcitor to supress the tic....tic....tic.....(any car audio shop should b able to hook you up ..... do but those POS Walmart noise supression ... Not only do they not work well but they compromise sound quaility #2., A direct source for power because of the draw. thers a coupla things you wanna watch for if this is the reason. 1. Wire gage go heavier then you need to assure the wire not getting hot. run it away from any direct heat sources (heated wire obstructs the flow of electrons(although not much) as well as shorts out when it melts through) Make straight runs (soft turns... no cinks) 2., Altenator .... step it up .... f you crank up the radio and the lights dim go heavyier (even heavy bass lines will draw down the amperage draw on the battery.
As far as running the wires (with out going out to my truck) there must be something you can squeeze by poke through somewhere .... beside exsisting throttle cables, wires, harnesses, etc. Ive installed many stereo systems in my own as well as others vehicles over the year but havent tackled anything newer then a 97 F250 gasser. and with that I was able to sneak by the steering coloum boot (scratches head) at least if i remember right anyways.... my memory sucks

 

holy crap man I just read this waste of time, drill the damn hole or run the damn wire under the damn truck to the rubber boot and move on who cares about your damn amp I dont anyways i was looking at running some wires for a trailering set up and need some info its the thread at the top Hometown pride dont want a drill a hole...... whatever ............by the way this is funny and I look forward to seeing more responses like this where the heck did you come up with that?

You may already have a direct power wire from the engine to the radio. You could tap and fuse that. If not, it looks like you may have to run a gas generator on the front seat. The exhaust is wicked though so maybe a wind turbine generator would be better. The only problem there is you lose allot of passengers to those spinning blades and then, the mess. You also have to have your heater fan on high all the time to keep those blades spinning. Maybe drilling a hole is not so bad.

 

I would ignore that last entry. SteelTaz1 gave great advise and avoid PCM wireing.

 

A) im not stupid, i have a family of electricians, i know what i need for wires and how to wire. My question was simple and all i wanted to know is if anyone had any suggestions as to where i could run the power wire from the batter to the cab, but some of you had to be smart asses. HomeTownPride, just shush lol the post ur reffering to was someones bad attempt at humor.

i dont need a new Altenator either, it will be fine, its a very small amp. i didnt want to go through the streering colum boot cause that moves all the time so i dont waht the wire to chafe of get tangled up and i cant turn (NOT good), im all set now, mods feel free to lock thread