Old body/ new frame
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Old body/ new frame
I have a 1979 Ford F250 4 door Crew cab, I want to take that frame and motor(360) and place an old school body from the 30s-50s on it. Drop it and make it a custom looking, unique riding peice. Has anyone ever done any of this? I have been researching Rat Rods and Junk yard Dogs, but it seems that eveyone keeps to small frames with the old bodies.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 193
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From: Charleston Illinois
Most people use the smaller frames because they fit better. Mine is a 89 Ranger frame.
The full size frames are longer (your's is longer yet).
I drive by a 40/46 cab mounted to a fullsize frame on my way to School everyday so it can be done, but it looks like the guy is having some trouble getting the bed to look right. It has a newer style 70's bed on it right now. There's a lot of frame back there to fillup. If you were thinking about making the older cab a four door, that would certainly look different, but the curved roof line would be a real mess to get straight on a clip that size.
A flat bed might fix all of the problems, how about building a car hauler or something?
Check the dips and curves in the frame, they always end up somewhere they shouldn't be.
The full size frames are longer (your's is longer yet).
I drive by a 40/46 cab mounted to a fullsize frame on my way to School everyday so it can be done, but it looks like the guy is having some trouble getting the bed to look right. It has a newer style 70's bed on it right now. There's a lot of frame back there to fillup. If you were thinking about making the older cab a four door, that would certainly look different, but the curved roof line would be a real mess to get straight on a clip that size.
A flat bed might fix all of the problems, how about building a car hauler or something?
Check the dips and curves in the frame, they always end up somewhere they shouldn't be.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
I put my 51 Mercury M-3 truck on a 78 F-250 Supercab frame. I have a 17 page tech article written on it with a link to in my signature.
Just the only thing is the Twin-I-Beam suspension doesn't take to being lowered as it throws the camber out and would hit the crossmember.
Here's a picture of mine: (I've since changed the fenders and front hubs)
It sits about stock height.
I prefer the long frames since it's easy to shorten them to make it fit better than a say a Ranger frame. You can make it a straight like the stock frame as shown here.
The hardest problem to overcome is the track width of the 73-79 trucks. You may have some trouble keeping the tires under the fenders. So go read my article and decide if you want to continue with the swap.
Just the only thing is the Twin-I-Beam suspension doesn't take to being lowered as it throws the camber out and would hit the crossmember.
Here's a picture of mine: (I've since changed the fenders and front hubs)
It sits about stock height.
I prefer the long frames since it's easy to shorten them to make it fit better than a say a Ranger frame. You can make it a straight like the stock frame as shown here.
The hardest problem to overcome is the track width of the 73-79 trucks. You may have some trouble keeping the tires under the fenders. So go read my article and decide if you want to continue with the swap.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 193
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From: Charleston Illinois
The reason I used a ranger frame, is that it is already the right size. The longbed Ranger frame is almost exactly the same in wheelbase length. Mine is a shortbed frame, but it was cheap enough that I couldn't pass it up. It's three inches shorter in wheelbase length. Everything else is just a matter of welding in new cab mounts. (those line up surprisingly well though). The width is very close ( no fender problems).
I almost went with a short bed f150 frame. It's also a pretty close fit. If you have the truck already I guess you have to cut up what you got, but if you get an option find one that fits close.
I'm not nockin' your work 51 dueller. If I had a 70's ford laying around, I'd probably cut it up using your directions. That's a really nice site. I'm thinking about buildin' one of those myself. I get a lot of questions about my frame swap.
I almost went with a short bed f150 frame. It's also a pretty close fit. If you have the truck already I guess you have to cut up what you got, but if you get an option find one that fits close.
I'm not nockin' your work 51 dueller. If I had a 70's ford laying around, I'd probably cut it up using your directions. That's a really nice site. I'm thinking about buildin' one of those myself. I get a lot of questions about my frame swap.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
I don't have any thing against the Ranger frames. It is working well for you. They are cheap and plentiful. We get a couple questions every once in awhile in the 48-60 forum about a person wanting to use a frame that is shaped like a pretzel but has the correct wheelbase. I've always put track width and frame design before wheelbase. Wheelbase is easier to change than the other two.
Anyways we are like comparing apples to oranges. A 46 truck is a lot different than say a 51, 56 or a 60 truck. What works for one vehicle may not work for another.
I think Nyoonch needs narrow his truck choice a little as 30's to 50's is vary broad. I would recommend the 73-79 chassis swap only for vehicles with a track width over 60". The Ranger would be more ideal for the vehicles with the smaller track width.
The reasons I did mine was I hated the stock steering box and wanted better brakes. Currently there isn't any adaptable suspensions with 8 lugs so that only left a frame swap and my dad gave me a 78 F-250 Supercab for free. I won't give up my 12 9/16" disk brakes, power steering and dually wheels for nothing.
I did forget to mention I'm building a dually pickup.
Anyways we are like comparing apples to oranges. A 46 truck is a lot different than say a 51, 56 or a 60 truck. What works for one vehicle may not work for another.
I think Nyoonch needs narrow his truck choice a little as 30's to 50's is vary broad. I would recommend the 73-79 chassis swap only for vehicles with a track width over 60". The Ranger would be more ideal for the vehicles with the smaller track width.
The reasons I did mine was I hated the stock steering box and wanted better brakes. Currently there isn't any adaptable suspensions with 8 lugs so that only left a frame swap and my dad gave me a 78 F-250 Supercab for free. I won't give up my 12 9/16" disk brakes, power steering and dually wheels for nothing.
I did forget to mention I'm building a dually pickup.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 193
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From: Charleston Illinois
I definitely have to see it as a dually.
That would be a first for me. Would you keep the rear fenders? you would have to widen them right?
Got to get pics of that on your site.
No four wheel drive? Mine is 4x4 but the ground clearance won't be great enough for any real fun. Should get me in out of the drive in the winter though.
That would be a first for me. Would you keep the rear fenders? you would have to widen them right?
Got to get pics of that on your site.
No four wheel drive? Mine is 4x4 but the ground clearance won't be great enough for any real fun. Should get me in out of the drive in the winter though.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
I got to widen the fenders about 7" and make the stock box wheel tubs 3" wider on each side. I only got the front wheels on.
I'm using some wider fenders of a F-6 truck to easily cover the wider track width. They fit good but they are 2" longer so it throws the wheel opening off slightly.
If you want to look at the finished product, just look at my avatar. I plan on making the truck look like a stock dually. You could special order a 51-52 F-3 truck with DRW but as a C&C only. I've yet to see one.
As for 4WD, only a Dana 60 was offered in a DRW configuration and they go for big $$$$. I would also have to change my transmission, transfer case, driveshafts, ring and pinion ratio etc. I kept the under floor pedals and is directly in the way of the front driveshaft. While it would be nice, I don't know if it would be worth the $2500 price tag. I got almost 12" of clearance in the front and my lowest point is the rear differential.
I'm using some wider fenders of a F-6 truck to easily cover the wider track width. They fit good but they are 2" longer so it throws the wheel opening off slightly.
If you want to look at the finished product, just look at my avatar. I plan on making the truck look like a stock dually. You could special order a 51-52 F-3 truck with DRW but as a C&C only. I've yet to see one.
As for 4WD, only a Dana 60 was offered in a DRW configuration and they go for big $$$$. I would also have to change my transmission, transfer case, driveshafts, ring and pinion ratio etc. I kept the under floor pedals and is directly in the way of the front driveshaft. While it would be nice, I don't know if it would be worth the $2500 price tag. I got almost 12" of clearance in the front and my lowest point is the rear differential.
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I appreciate all of the suggestions, and I am about to go read up on your site. The only thing that I was thinking about doing is something like the car off of the old t.v show, "The Munsters" Not quite that fancy, but close to that design. I want something that I can beat the hell out of and then drive it home.
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