PSD Hard Start
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PSD Hard Start
Hello, I have a 2001 7.3 that doesn't like to start after sitting all night. It always starts, sometimes takes twice, but is missing and has no power. It acts like the old pump system when there is air. If left to idle it will be missing then one at a time pick up the dead cylinders. It doesn't seem to increase in idle for cold warm-up.
There is no smoke and the glow plugs act normal. Other times when it is used daily, there is no start issues at all. I have checked the HPOP and it is 1/2-3/4" below the top. I have filled it before trying to start with no avail. It has gotten increasingly worse since its last oil change 1500m ago (Castrol Diesel engine oil 10-40) but was doing it before. Ambient temp doesn't make a lot of difference. Replaced the CPS with no change. What is next? This thing is making me nuts!
Have seen some reference to the Injector Control Module and a CMP?, don't know what that is and don't know if the throttle position sensor/idle position sensor can create any of this. I really like this PU but can't tolerate the hard start issues.
Jailhouse Jim
There is no smoke and the glow plugs act normal. Other times when it is used daily, there is no start issues at all. I have checked the HPOP and it is 1/2-3/4" below the top. I have filled it before trying to start with no avail. It has gotten increasingly worse since its last oil change 1500m ago (Castrol Diesel engine oil 10-40) but was doing it before. Ambient temp doesn't make a lot of difference. Replaced the CPS with no change. What is next? This thing is making me nuts!
Have seen some reference to the Injector Control Module and a CMP?, don't know what that is and don't know if the throttle position sensor/idle position sensor can create any of this. I really like this PU but can't tolerate the hard start issues.
Jailhouse Jim
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Welcome to FTE Jailhouse Jim. 
What you are describing are classic symptoms of a wiring harness coming loose under the valve covers.
Read this, there's some pictures to help illustrate.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html
What you are describing are classic symptoms of a wiring harness coming loose under the valve covers.
Read this, there's some pictures to help illustrate.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html
Postmaster
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From: colorado
i posted this in the other thread you posted in the "general diesel" forum:
castrol does not make a 10-40 diesel oil, double check that. what about the batteries, often there can be enough juice to turn the motor over but not enough to start it. the PCM has to see a certain voltage (i forget how much) to start the truck, if it drops below that it will not start
castrol does not make a 10-40 diesel oil, double check that. what about the batteries, often there can be enough juice to turn the motor over but not enough to start it. the PCM has to see a certain voltage (i forget how much) to start the truck, if it drops below that it will not start
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Is it common for these wiring issues to let the engine run great once it gets through the initial missing issues?
Castrol does make an engine oil specific to diesels. I believe it is very new as I just found it at Kragen's. The engine always starts so voltage should be an issue as the Alt. picks up right away.
Castrol does make an engine oil specific to diesels. I believe it is very new as I just found it at Kragen's. The engine always starts so voltage should be an issue as the Alt. picks up right away.
Postmaster
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From: colorado
Originally Posted by Jailhouse Jim
Is it common for these wiring issues to let the engine run great once it gets through the initial missing issues? .
Originally Posted by Jailhouse Jim
Castrol does make an engine oil specific to diesels. I believe it is very new as I just found it at Kragen's.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Here is another picture of a loose 9 pin under valve cover connector..Notice the gap in the center of the connector. This is what i found after removing the driver's side valve cover.. It was missing and had a SES light. The pass. side was still making conact but it was also about 3/16" pull apart.. The only thing holding the connector together was the wires. This is only after 71K miles on the engine.. Made a shim to prevent the badly designed plastic locking tabs from releasing connector.. Note: you can reuse the valve cover gaskets.. Any faults codes...?
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This engine runs great after the initial start-up and usually starts good daily. It becomes most pronownced when left sitting several days although can be a problem overnight.
JJ
JJ
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From: Tucker GA.
I appreciate Clintbonnie's photo of the wiring harness. It seems to me that when the connector's pull-apart like the one I see in the Pix the reduced contact area would increase contact resistance and overtime without use cool and further increase the contact resistance. I may have to do this someday and is nice to know what I'm up against. The fix would be to use a good electrical contact cleaner and lint free cloth. I would like to know more about what the "Shim" look's like and where you jam it.
Mello!
Mello!
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From: Tucker GA.
I appreciate Clintbonnie's photo of the wiring harness. It seems to me that when the connector's pull-apart like the one I see in the Pix the reduced contact area would increase contact resistance and overtime without use cool and further increase the contact resistance. I may have to do this someday and is nice to know what I'm up against. The fix would be to use a good electrical contact cleaner and lint free cloth. I would like to know more about what the "Shim" look's like and where you jam it.
Mello!
Mello!
Cargo Master
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Originally Posted by melloo
The fix would be to use a good electrical contact cleaner and lint free cloth. I would like to know more about what the "Shim" look's like and where you jam it.
Mello!
Mello!