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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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Exclamation I Got Me A Problem...help PLEASE

f350 DUALLY 4X4 7.3 DIESEL...NOTICES A WEIRED FRONT END NOISE IN TIRES...jACKED TRUCK UP ON BOTH SIDES AND REMOVED BOTH TIRES... PASSENGER SIDE HAS PLAY IN THE HUB/ROTOR..ONLY FROM BOTTOM TO TOP ..WHEN I PULL BOTTOM THERE IS A BOUT 1 INCH PLAY FROM TOP TO BOTTOM PULLING HUB IN AND OUT ...DRIVERS SIDE IS VERY SLIGHT. I KNOW ITS A PROBLEM AND ITS WEARING BRAKE OUT ALSO...DOESNT HAVE PLAY FROM SIDE TO SIDE BUT ALOT FROM TOP AND BOTTOM. BEFORE I GO FURTHER WHAT CAN BE WRONG? SEEMS ALMOST AS IF HUB ISNT ON TIGHT. I JUST REALIZED IT CANT GO FROM SIDE TO SIDE AS THE BRKE PADS ARE THER SO IT JUST MIGHT MOVE IF CALIPER IS REMOVED.
 

Last edited by DUALLYNOTED; Apr 9, 2007 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 11:53 AM
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I pulled off hub extender, rotor and caliper and its real loose....Looks like either a seal in the Hub?? Or a bearing or just Past the u-joint where shaft goes into axle. Is there a seal or bearing there? Will I have to drain Housing of fluid before removing axle? Looks like Im answering my own question....seems to be the hub bearing assy. Would it be good Idea to do them both ??
 

Last edited by DUALLYNOTED; Apr 9, 2007 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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it sounds like a ball joint or wheel bearing to me... I could be wrong but from past test i've done like that, thats what i found out to be wrong.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Is the ball joint visible? Nothing seems to move but the hub on the inside..very wobbly. There is alot of play inside the hub or steering knuckle
 

Last edited by DUALLYNOTED; Apr 9, 2007 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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that sounds like a bearing to me. I think when i replaced my bearings it was doing that. I did one side and figured i'd do the other side while i was at it. if u have the hub and rotor off, what does the bearing look like??? is it copper colored??
 
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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The unit bearings go out all of the time, and are not serviceable. You are going topay a premium for replacements. Those things are not cheap. You will want to do both sides since the miles on both are the same..You can purchase them with or wothout mounting studs, and with or without ABS sensors. The price is determined by this, but expect to pay about $300.00 ea. I upgraded to the Dynatrac kit that eliminated the stock bearings, and eventually installed them on my Excursion, and just recently installed them on my 07 with only 1800 miles. Did not want to wait until they went out. Make sure you replace seals, and the big o-ring inside that is responsible for making a good seal when the ESOF system is called, or the hubs will not engage the next time you need 4x4.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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Cant see the Bearing...I took off hub extender, rotor and caliper, Now I have the Hub on the truck but not off yet. Theres alittle clip inside that I have to get off the axle too inside the hub. I havent done this before but It doesnt seem too Hard. Im pretty convinced its the hub assembly by the play in it. I have ABS and dual rear wheels which makes a difference on the hub I need also. Where is the O ring and seals? in the knuckle? I would like to get the mounting studs with it because that looks like a job in itself too. Napa on line is about 410 each but i see alot on ebay also in the mid 200's...Just checked and it says the dynatrac may not be compatible with some DRW's. Is it an after market part that I put on the Hub assembly?
 

Last edited by DUALLYNOTED; Apr 9, 2007 at 08:04 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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The dynatrac is not compatible with some DRW's, but some are, and they replace the hub assembly with a serviceable bearing set. You do have to remove the dually adapter, and the hub assembly will come off only after you remove the nuts from the backside of the knuckle. There should be 4. You will not be able to see the bearings.
Search under unit bearings, or front wheel bearings in the Super Duty forum, and you will find plenty of how to links. As a matter of fact, I believe that you can also find it under articles and specs at the top of your screen. For sure it is being discussed, or has been discussed within the last 48 hrs. in the SD forum. One has a complete picture by picture how to.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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I got the 4 nuts and c clip off.....now ive thrown everything at it but the kitchen sink and the hub will not free itself from knuckle...pb blaster, sledge ...its not moving a bit.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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Ok Thanks...finally Got It Off...with The Kitchen Sink ..haha..had To Cut 1 Stud That Was Binding And It Worked Free...now Im Looking At Something Else Thats Disturbing Me. With The Hub Off, I Move The Axle By Hand Where The Splines Are And Just Past The U Joints Going Into The Axle There Is Alot Of Play There Also..i Have A Feeling Thats Bad Too..its Right Where The Axle Goes In Just Past Joints..almost Right Under The Shock..going Into The Beam
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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What a difference a new hub assembly Makes!!!!...Goes on much easier than it comes off...No more wandering on road and lost my death wobble that was coming back. Now to the other side!!!!...another tip..the one i bought came with the new studs, which seem to be a big part of removal process...get enough room between knuckle and old hub for a cutoff wheel and cut the bolts. SOOO much easier...it slides right out! Hey..Any recommendations on anything else That may need replacing that I can do as far as front end is concerned?..I know ball joints are a Ball B##### to do. Thanks for the help!!! Got a great deal on mine..harder to get because its a dually..I found a good ebayer...brand new for 259.99 +16 ship. Best Ive seen
 

Last edited by DUALLYNOTED; Apr 20, 2007 at 10:17 PM.
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