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If fuel tank leaks from the top, its the gasket, if the fuel gage doesn't work, it may be the gage or the sender ...or a loose wire connection....depending on if its a metal leak from rust it is the best way to replace a tank and sending unit..and you'll have to dropp the tank to inspect it or pull the rear bed off to do it.
My 84 was making a noise that drove me nuts. Turned out to be the floor just barely touching the crossmember..whenever a bump was hit.... Removed bolt...put in 2 washers..problem solved...j
Mine wasn't making a popping noise, but the cab and the driver's door was always rattling over bumps.
My frame and crossmembers were really getting rusty, so I scraped and painted the frame, and got the back half of the frame off a later model 2wd truck, and drilled out all the crossmembers from it, and bolted them in my frame. What I found out was the 2wd crossmember underneath the cab, as well as the same crossmember on mine, were both rusted out right under the rubber bushing. To look at it, you can't even tell it's rusted, since it rusts out perfectly under the rubber mount. You end up with a nice round about 3 inch hole in the crossmember when the two rear cab mount bolts are taken out, and the rear of the cab is jacked up.
I took two small square plates and used them to bridge over the hole on the driver's side, and then remounted the cab. Boy what a difference! It rides like it's brand new.
Here's a picture of the crossmember. That big round hole in the top is not supposed to be there. It's only supposed to be about 1/2" or a little larger in diameter for the mount bolt to go through.
i'd support franklin's prognosis on this issue, i've seen that happen before. if your cab mount really did pop off, however, theres a good chance you wouldn't be able to get enough good metal to get a weld worth your time. generally, with rusted off parts, its better to replace, fabricate, or simply leave it alone, and in that case, its normally easier to rivet the part on, since a weld on bad metal won't hold anyways. just my .02 worth
These trucks are known for rusted cab mounts. The metal dissapears between the rubber cab mount biscuits.
Put a 2x6 running parallel under the rocker panel and jack up the cab with a floor jack.
Grasp chest over heart when cab seperates from frame (don't worry, when jack is let down it falls right back into place)
This can be fixed with a new mount (because you had to cut old one out with a sawzall) and a couple of large washers big enough to sandwich the oversized hole in the frame.
Usually the first ones to go are the radiator support mounts.
Good luck!
Steve G.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.