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Is the truck hard to start when it's cold? Just because you have 125K does not mean you have to change the glowplugs, save yourself some busted knuckles if its not starting by changing the gpr and making sure all the contacts are clean, I spent 3 hours per side changing mine only to find out they were all still good (140K mi) all I needed was a new gpr.
Like bridgeman said, don't change them just to be changing them. Ohm them out first to see if you have any bad ones. Also check the gpr for proper opertation. Let us know if you need any help, we're here for you.
ok thanks for the advice. Truck has been hard to start if I don't plug it in, even when it only gets down in the low 40's or so. Lots of white smoke and it cranks fine as the batts are new.
I bought a new GPR and will switch it out next weekend but I just figured might as well do the plugs at the same time.
Is there anyway to tell when they go bad besides checking the ohm's?
ok thanks for the advice. Truck has been hard to start if I don't plug it in, even when it only gets down in the low 40's or so. Lots of white smoke and it cranks fine as the batts are new.
I bought a new GPR and will switch it out next weekend but I just figured might as well do the plugs at the same time.
Is there anyway to tell when they go bad besides checking the ohm's?
pull em out and leave em hooked up and put them in the palm of your hand and have someone roll the key switch on. that'll tell ya which ones work and which ones dont
I have 253k on the original plugs. I did recently have to have the GPR and 4 out of 8 GP wiring harness connector ends replaced. But the GP were still good.
Test light like TJ said works good as a test. Hook the aligator clamp to the Pos battery terminal and then touch the outside pins on each of the valve cover plugs, 4 plugs 8 pins, light comes on, good plug, light doesn't come on, bad plug, or bad UVC wiring , either way you need to pull the Valve Cover and fix the issue.