351W Break in - how?
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351W Break in - how?
I have my 351W in my '84 Bronco now - done with the 'run in' for the cam. Got everything re-torqued and the rocker arms all adjusted and quiet. So now I'm ready to start the break in. My friend said get 100 miles on it and do the first oil change. Any thoughts on that? I know I shouldn't run at a constant speed for long periods of time, but what else should I know about breaking it in? How many miles before it's considered 'broken in' ?
I couldn't find a link to a 'how-to' - if there's one out there maybe someone can post it?
Thanks!
HG
I couldn't find a link to a 'how-to' - if there's one out there maybe someone can post it?
Thanks!
HG
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
everyone will have there own version i imagine. my grandfather told me to change oil/filter after cam break in. run 30wt dyno oil for 500 miles vary speeds but kept under 60 then change oil/filter. stay with same wt oil till 1500 miles and change oil/filter speed can be increased at this time and change oil/filter at 3000 mile on motor and then use what ever oil you wish. now if its still cold where you live you may not want to run 30wt. a good heavy oil will help rings seat and such.
its personal preference and how the oil looks each time i would think. if after 1500 miles it looks good you could probably switch oil type then and run it like you stole it. also know that during break in your engine will get much hotter then it normaly would so keep an eye on the rad fluid level. i thnk this is another reason to run the thicker oil because it wont break down as quickly
its personal preference and how the oil looks each time i would think. if after 1500 miles it looks good you could probably switch oil type then and run it like you stole it. also know that during break in your engine will get much hotter then it normaly would so keep an eye on the rad fluid level. i thnk this is another reason to run the thicker oil because it wont break down as quickly
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Originally Posted by HemiEater
I like to run in the cam 30 minutes, change oil and filter, cut open filter look for metal.
if it looks good run it 50 miles, change filter look for metal.
should be good to go if no metal in filter.............
if it looks good run it 50 miles, change filter look for metal.
should be good to go if no metal in filter.............
I might give it a try though. Thanks for the reply.HG
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
everyone will have there own version i imagine...
It's not ideal, but I have to drive this beast from SW Minnesota to Colorado on Sunday. It'll be a long trip at less than 60 MPH, but that'll give me time to enjoy the beautiful scenery in Nebraska. I better pick up some No-Doze. ;-)
HG
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From: Cincinnati
Originally Posted by HangGlider
but that'll give me time to enjoy the beautiful scenery in Nebraska.
Mike
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So far so good, If you had the time I'd drive it another 500 miles and then change oil. You probably don't so as much start and stop driving as possible. Or like Kemicalburns
said, very the rpm's as much as possible on the trip. 10w30 is ok, I just wouldn't use synthetic if it's on your mind. Rotella and some others have a higher zinc which will help the life of the cam and other parts. When you get west I'd get the oil changed.
said, very the rpm's as much as possible on the trip. 10w30 is ok, I just wouldn't use synthetic if it's on your mind. Rotella and some others have a higher zinc which will help the life of the cam and other parts. When you get west I'd get the oil changed.
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Oh - NOW you tell me!!! I think I have a Fram TG8A (or whatever their severe duty PH8A equivalent is) on it. [heavy sigh] Guess I'll have to stop tomorrow and get a different filter. Oh well - I need a new air filter anyway. Any suggestions along that line?
HG
HG
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