Flange tool
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
Flange tool
I just purchased a flange tool from Harbor Freight (item 41696). It states that max sheet metal thickness is 16 gauge. I'm going to be doing some body work on my 95 F150, wheel arch patch panels and cab corners. Is this flange tool appropriate for this job, or do I need a little heavier duty tool? I don't have the new panels as of yet. I'll be using aftermarket, probably from BroncoGraveyard or Sherman Associates here in MI. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Northwest Fl
I also have the same flange tool and used it on some 16 gauge when doing the running boards on my 55. It worked great on the heavier metal, also has a punch die built in for creating holes for spot welding.
Elder User
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The 3M panel adhesives work great, but check for which one you get since they make a couple types. One is for a permanent bonding, and there's also another which is permanent, but can also be removed with applied heat,, not so much like a hot summer day, more like a high temp heat gun.... Please don't ask about who prefers panel adhesives vs welding, you'll open a big ol can of worms. lol
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Virginia Beach,Va
alz,
I use Speed Grip, have had good success with it. I also use some tack (plug) welds along with the adhesive. BE sure to find out about priming over the adhesive, and what you can and can not use. I have had issues with the adhesive when the wrong primer is used over it.
I use Speed Grip, have had good success with it. I also use some tack (plug) welds along with the adhesive. BE sure to find out about priming over the adhesive, and what you can and can not use. I have had issues with the adhesive when the wrong primer is used over it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
I don't think I will be the one painting. I think I'm going to have a local shop put the paint on. I'm just going to do the bodywork to keep the costs down. I will put a primer on before it goes to the bodyshop as I have four different areas to do on the truck. Can I just use a rattlecan primer from Rustoleum or other? Or should I get something better from the paint store?
Thanks
Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
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If you're going to have the truck repainted,, don't use the rattlecan. It's not so much a matter that it isn't any good, but the point of a primer is twofold. One it's there to provide a chemical and mechanical bond for the paint, but it's also part of the protection process. The other purpose of primer is to show off any flaws in the bodywork, sand scratches, low spots etc... The cheap stuff in the rattle cans doesn't fill well enough to be useful. Go with an actual primer, whether it's a laquer primer or and epoxy.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
It wouldn't be the final primer, but sealing the fiberglass and or bondo before it goes to the painter. When there, he will apply a primer on all the areas he is going to paint.
This is getting a little off topic of this thread, but are there any bodywork books that you would reccomend. I picked up a Haynes bodywork/painting book, but it's a little dated and doesn't cover any metal bonding.
Thanks again.
This is getting a little off topic of this thread, but are there any bodywork books that you would reccomend. I picked up a Haynes bodywork/painting book, but it's a little dated and doesn't cover any metal bonding.
Thanks again.
Elder User
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Can't really be much help on the metal bonding books, but I will say this, if you really need to learn more about it, find a local heavy truck dealership,, Freightshaker, KW, or Pete that has a bodyshop, then just go back and ask if they mind if you pick the brains of the bodyguys for tips,, they shouldn't mind in most instances and those guys know quite a bit about panel bonding. Especially Pete since the new 889 series ( might be wrong ) is for the most part completely assembled with panel adhesives.. NGC did a show called Extreme Factories about the new Pete, it was pretty interesting and informative.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Michigan
I did catch that program, but didn't see the whole thing. Never saw any of the body going together. Thanks for all the info.
One more thing a little more on the topic of the flange tool. If the repair panels are 20-22ga sheetmetal, what is the original sheetmetal? How deep of a flange does this tool make? Will the patch panel sit flush with the old panel after bonding? I don't want to have to use fiberglass over the entire patch panel to match the old panel.
Thanks again all.
One more thing a little more on the topic of the flange tool. If the repair panels are 20-22ga sheetmetal, what is the original sheetmetal? How deep of a flange does this tool make? Will the patch panel sit flush with the old panel after bonding? I don't want to have to use fiberglass over the entire patch panel to match the old panel.
Thanks again all.
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The sheet metal being used today is similar to the thickness used when your truck was produced, but it's not so much the matter of the thickness anymore. The real issue in today's metal's more specific sheet metal is that it's a bit more flexible than it used to be,, cheaper to produce, cheaper to the customer and that's a big reason why aftermarket parts are so much less expensive than a factory replacement part.
I'm not really sure just how deep the flange will be but I'd have to guess maybe around 30% or better, it's enough to get a nice bead laid in it. The big key as to whether or not you'll be doing small or larger amounts of fill work honestly will be your welding skills and how much if any you warp the metal. Take your time when installing it, there's always some fill work to be done no matter what, how much is up to you and how clean you need it to look.
I'm not really sure just how deep the flange will be but I'd have to guess maybe around 30% or better, it's enough to get a nice bead laid in it. The big key as to whether or not you'll be doing small or larger amounts of fill work honestly will be your welding skills and how much if any you warp the metal. Take your time when installing it, there's always some fill work to be done no matter what, how much is up to you and how clean you need it to look.
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