Bogging
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: UPSTATE NY
Bogging
once in a while my truck bogs. its also tough to start in the morning. it never was like that before i put in my new msd blaster coil. and i've heard sometimes these coils are too much for a stock setup so i put a new cap and rotor, wires, and plugs. i cant figure out what else it might be, maybe my alternator, or miscellaneous wiring somewhere? i just dont get it. the stock coil was fine but i am a lunatic and thought it would be a great idea to upgrade it.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
First, look under your hood at night, with the engine running. You may be able to see your problem. The new cap and wires were a good idea, but were they stockers or something that was made to take higher voltages? How about the time element? I could not start once after a few days of rain with my vehicle outside. I said to myself: "Why are these almost new spark plug wires giving me grief?" Well, I got to thinking and they were far from new - time slips right on by.
Also are your plug wires routed in factory fashion, or at least well spaced, especially those that run parallel for a long distance. Ford V-8's did not have the left bank wires in order for a good reason - it lead to cross-firing. More also: are the wires clean from dust & oil. Add a little dampness and you bleed of spark energy. Look inside your dist. cap and wipe off any carbon tracking or dust.
Good luck & post back what you find out.
Also are your plug wires routed in factory fashion, or at least well spaced, especially those that run parallel for a long distance. Ford V-8's did not have the left bank wires in order for a good reason - it lead to cross-firing. More also: are the wires clean from dust & oil. Add a little dampness and you bleed of spark energy. Look inside your dist. cap and wipe off any carbon tracking or dust.
Good luck & post back what you find out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,360
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From: Iowa
A lot of people open up the plug gap when upgrading ignition components. A bigger gap means more spark at the plug, but it also means the ignition system is working harder to make that spark. If even one component in your ignition isn't up to snuff, you'll have problems.
I upgraded to the Duraspark electronic system years ago, but left my plug gap at .035. It's easier for me to remember what the gap is supposed to be that way.
Another thought, Ford used a resistor wire to the coil. If you didn't replace it, you may not be getting the reccommended voltage to the coil.
I upgraded to the Duraspark electronic system years ago, but left my plug gap at .035. It's easier for me to remember what the gap is supposed to be that way.
Another thought, Ford used a resistor wire to the coil. If you didn't replace it, you may not be getting the reccommended voltage to the coil.
Last edited by 390fe; Apr 4, 2007 at 05:19 PM. Reason: more info
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: UPSTATE NY
as far as the resistor goes i was thinking the same thing but the parts guy at the store pulled up a microfiche and showed me how its incorperated into the wiring somehow. on the stock coil there is a small barrel attached to it which i've been told is a capacitor, but what i'm really thinking could be going on here is either something with the wiring or the msd coil is gahhbage
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: UPSTATE NY
what about the ridicoulously thin stock wires that are here and there? like the one that goes to the coil or from the key ? maybe one of those skinny wires is on its way out? thats all i can think of cause this problem is really intermittent, happens only once in a while, points are in real good shape too, its like for a split second all ignition stops and its a hardcore bog
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: woodward/okmulgee, ok
i had same problem, plus intermittent backfires. duraspark is an upgrade from points, but my opinion still sucks. i had bad wires to my coil on my '80. the people who owned it before me rewired it with about 10 splices between the duraspark box and coil. i fixed that, and cleaned the terminals on my coil, and it ran good.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: UPSTATE NY
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Sudbury, ONT.
Before you spend big $ on a new distributor, why not upgrade with a points conversion kit. Unless the rest of your distributor is worn too, it's a simple upgrade, and it keeps your engine compartment cleaner without all the extra wiring. My engine had the Duraspark. You'd be driving along fine, then it was like someone shut the key off. A couple seconds later, it'd backfire HUGE, then run fine again. I swapped in a points distributor that I had, and the problem went away.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: UPSTATE NY
Originally Posted by 68murc
You'd be driving along fine, then it was like someone shut the key off. A couple seconds later, it'd backfire HUGE, then run fine again.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 881
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From: Sudbury, ONT.
Well, aside from scaring the s@!t out of everyone around, it sucked. I changed the module on the inner fender a few times. After each change it would run fine for a while, then the problem would start again. My truck's a '68 so swapping to the points distributor with the points conversion kit eliminatd all the extra wires, and helped keep the engine bay looking "period correct" I did the swap two years ago, and haven't had a problem since. Good luck!
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