Newbie

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Apr 6, 2007 | 10:43 PM

#16

Alvin in AZ

Postmaster

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 2,760

Likes: 8

From: Gadsden Purchase

Quote:

Originally Posted by OLBLUE2

Ive had a few 360's strong motor. If your tearing it down anyways why dont you install 390 crank/pistons etc. and make her into a 390 instead of a 360. Just a thought. Good luck.

Yeah think about that after you get your ugly butt over on the FE engine forum! :)

I've got a 360FE and got it rebuilt by "the best;)" and man does it ever run good... more power, more usable power band, better gas mileage, better oil mileage.
Heck, it even smells better. :)

The original valve guides were crap and the valve seats were simply hardened surfaces on the cast iron. Those two fixes alone will make the old FE iron worth keeping. ...but not saying it doesn't need an over haul. :)

All the heads and intake manifolds on FEs are good ones, only the right hand exhaust manifold is not what it could be and on my '75 360 T-18 the Y pipe innards would have been a joke if it would have been funny somehow. :/

As far as the right hand exhaust manifold goes, it doesn't hurt anything, if you bop around on torque. A 390 crank and rods will help you bop around on torque like you mean business. ;)

Alvin in AZ

Apr 9, 2007 | 11:27 PM

#17

Mrcorey5

Senior User

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 167

Likes: 0

From: Topeka, Kansas

360 rebuild

I learned a great tip on this forum about the 360. Be sure to order a pre 73 timing set. I have read that in 73 they monkeyed with the cam timing

Apr 10, 2007 | 12:30 AM

#18

Mil1ion

New User

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 0

Likes: 24

Well you really don't have to say that anymore.

Pretty well lll the good new timing sets have a 3-key way crankshaft gear.

So.. they can be "advanced" ..."retarded".....or "straight up".

Apr 10, 2007 | 01:03 AM

#19

Broken40

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 408

Likes: 0

From: Emmett, ID

welcome to the site, we're glad you joined, there are some cheese nips, in the cupboard and milk in the fridge, make yer self at home....lol welcome.

Apr 10, 2007 | 04:57 PM

#20

bigfoot22

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 294

Likes: 30

From: VA

The VIN # does'nt tell me a whole lot. I was trying to find the axles codes.VIN# F10YNU41946.Thanks guys for all the help.

Apr 10, 2007 | 05:34 PM

#21

Mil1ion

New User

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 0

Likes: 24

Then post the axle code from the tag or door rating plate

Apr 12, 2007 | 03:01 PM

#22

volksrod1

New User

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 19

Likes: 0

From: wild and wonderful WV

I pulled mine out to reseal some stuff (oil pan, head gaskets, front seal, ect) and I looked at the rod and main bearings. the showed some pretty bad, but even wear. slaped in some new rod and main bearings, resealed, and slammed it back into the truck. It made a dramatic change in the oil pressure. ( I also replaced the oil pump and cleaned the pickup.) I'm getting around 15-20 psi at an idle and 40-60 psi at 3000rpm depending on how cold it is. The new seal kit on e-bay was $20, fel-pro head gaskets were around $30 (don't like cheap head gaskets) and the bearings were around $100. I used clevite frome The local parts house. Took me one weekend to do it. 4000 miles later, it is running great. Drove it to baltimore from WV. No problems except for a tranny output seal leak, which I have fixed. If you are as tight on loot as I am, that would be an inexspensive way to fix your problem.