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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: VA
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Hello everyone.New to the forum.Just a quick note.My dad passed away on NOV. 20 2006. and my mom thought i should have my dad's truck. it's a 1974 F-100 short bed,360 engine with 82,000 orignal miles,factory air,black.It does need a paint job.My dad had this truck for 28 years and kept it under a carport-not a garage, it has some fading..anyway going down the road it has good oil pressure.But come to stop light or stand still the oil pressure drops to low.My dad's mechanic told me that he replaced the oil pump and oil sending unit and it did'nt do any good.He said that not driving the vehicle like he should done this. I don't know.I'm giong to have the truck painted back black.I don't know to rebuild the orignal motor or replace it with a crate motor.The interior looks showroom new.Any ideas?Thank you all for your input.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,996
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From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Hi bigfoot22, welcome to FTE. Sorry to hear about your dad's passing.Sounds like he knew how to take care of a truck.Your oil pressure problem is not unusual for a 360 but before I'd jump into an overhaul I would hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and go for a ride.Other than oil pressure does it do anything else out of the ordinary? Any noises or smoke? If not you may have a gauge problem not an engine problem.360's got a bad rap by a lot of folks but I've had them in the past and although not a tire burner they are reliable.If you do go the crate engine route I'd suggest looking into a 390. It will have a lot more snap and bolts right in place of a 360.Hope this helps.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,282
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From: Oregon
I had a 360 with a bad main bearing, oil pressure was at about 20 psi usually. As others have stated, you probably won't have a problem unless you start hearing clacking, or the lifters ticking. I really miss having a FE motor, they always seem pretty "vocal" with their problems (but still run like nothing's wrong). The 335s are less "bulletproof." If it turns out to just be a gauge problem, or nothing serious, just look into headers on a 360, IMO. That was one of the worst problems with those motors, the stock manifolds were horribly designed.
Welcome to FTE, this is where I spend every night, of every day learning more constantly. One of the best (if not THE BEST) site on the web devoted to a certain vehicle.
Welcome to FTE, this is where I spend every night, of every day learning more constantly. One of the best (if not THE BEST) site on the web devoted to a certain vehicle.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Welcome to the site 
As an engine wears the bearings that are on the crankshaft & camshaft gradually create a larger space between the parts ......causing the oil pressure to drop.
The best way to check is with a mechanical gauge that can be hooked up to the spot where the Factory sending unit is.
Then you start the engine and rev it to certain RPM'S ...all the while watching the pressure readout.
If the oil pressure is lower than 10 Psi at 800 rpm then you need new bearings.
Here is a site that may help you learn general auto stuff
.http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
As an engine wears the bearings that are on the crankshaft & camshaft gradually create a larger space between the parts ......causing the oil pressure to drop.
The best way to check is with a mechanical gauge that can be hooked up to the spot where the Factory sending unit is.
Then you start the engine and rev it to certain RPM'S ...all the while watching the pressure readout.
If the oil pressure is lower than 10 Psi at 800 rpm then you need new bearings.
Here is a site that may help you learn general auto stuff
.http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 294
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From: VA
This truck has a gauge,not a light for the oil pressure.I thought that replacing the sending unit would do it.First,thank you guy's for the replies.Every bit helps.Now for the oil pressure,When it's at a stand still the pressure drops all the way to the bottom and cuts off if you don't hold one foot on the brake and one on the gas.no knocking going on though.It smokes a little at start up but nothing major.I want to make this truck a saturday night driver and sunday driver ,not a daily driver.you know,show these young guys that this old guy still has great looking old school american steel around.Thanbks again.
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Don't go by the Ford gauge.They aren't accurate enough.
One little piece of engine crud will block off the orifice and cause a wrong reading
You need to Verfiy the pressure with a mechanical gauge ...one that reads out the actual pressure.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener.../bldef_589.htm
One little piece of engine crud will block off the orifice and cause a wrong reading
You need to Verfiy the pressure with a mechanical gauge ...one that reads out the actual pressure.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener.../bldef_589.htm
Last edited by Mil1ion; Apr 2, 2007 at 11:17 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 294
Likes: 30
From: VA
Tried the gauge on thr oil pressure-not good. I've made up my mind.i'm going to the complete overhaul on the motor.Any ideas on where i can find a complete kit for a 360?I'm also going to have the truck repainted.I talked to one of the best painters around here and I supposed to meet with him next week for the price.The only thing about that is he told me it would be close to 10 to 12 months before he can get to it.(waiting list for the whole truck to be done right).That will give me time to get the engine right.I'm having the engine bay painted also.I'll probably be looking for the stock decals that go on the air cleaner.anyone knows where I can find stuff like that? I would also like to know what is the stock rear end gear ratio is.I know nothing.I think the VIN number should tell me something,but where to do I get that info.This is going to one sharp ride when i'm done.It's going to be in memory of my dad.sorry for such a long post.Thank you everybody-Ken
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,282
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From: Oregon
Air cleaner decals, check out Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. They have the 360 decal for $3.
Glad to hear about the overhaul. I drove myself nuts (it's WELL documented on here) just trying to keep my 400 alive. Took it to a shop for a full rebuild with a warranty, and can't believe the difference!
Someone on here will be able to decode your whole truck if you post the VIN.
Glad to hear about the overhaul. I drove myself nuts (it's WELL documented on here) just trying to keep my 400 alive. Took it to a shop for a full rebuild with a warranty, and can't believe the difference!
Someone on here will be able to decode your whole truck if you post the VIN.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Go to this page and see the thing called a Rating plate at the top of the page.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...ruckCodes.html
Post everything from your plate..it should be attached to the door where it latches.
Most restoration parts can be bought from a FTE sponsor,
See the list on the left side of the page
or
at the top of this thread you will see the BOTP logo.
Just click that.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...ruckCodes.html
Post everything from your plate..it should be attached to the door where it latches.
Most restoration parts can be bought from a FTE sponsor,
See the list on the left side of the page
or
at the top of this thread you will see the BOTP logo.
Just click that.
