When to shift?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 771
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From: Aurora
Good point, and it sort of exposes an assumption on my part. I guess we can look at it this way. If your going to be downshifting to slow down, but not stopping, into a gear that your going to be using to accelerate out of, then you have to downshift anyway, no? I'm usually pretty conservative with my brakes and try to slow down early on and sort of gradually. If you give yourself a little extra distance to slow down, it's amazing how little pressure I need to come to a stop. The majority of the wear happens at high temperature. I've known people who constantly hammer on the brakes who're getting their brakes done every year. I normally get several. The same could probably be said about the clutch. Used sensibly and conservatively(not to an extreme mind you), but within reason, you can use it to slow the vehicle regularly without reducing it's life significantly. Another related issue to consider may be surface area of the clutch vs brakes, as well as the fact that the friction used by the clutch is only experienced during the downshifting cycle with the engine's compression doing most of the braking from there, while the brakes are using strictly friction from the pads for the entire braking cycle.
Food for thought
Fred
Food for thought
Fred
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
You can do whatever you choose. Don't downshift and use the brakes, and wear your brake pads out. Downshift and wait to use the brakes, wear out the clutch and the brakes on a lesser level. Totally up to you.
I've never downshifted coming to a stop. I reserve downshifting for emergencies. I'd prefer to save a little wear on the transmission synchros and clutch and just use the brakes to stop, since to me the brakes are the easier thing to replace.
I've never downshifted coming to a stop. I reserve downshifting for emergencies. I'd prefer to save a little wear on the transmission synchros and clutch and just use the brakes to stop, since to me the brakes are the easier thing to replace.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 649
Likes: 1
From: north carolina
for me, the thing i tend to wear the fastest on a stick shift is the release bearing/throw out bearing. thats due to my driving style. i on/off the clutch no riding it. i rarely use 4th gear. by the time im at 55 in 3rd its over to od. thats just my driving style and choice. i have 147K on my truck with original clutch. it has been downshifted to the stops. brakes are going to get used either way you do it. downshift or not your foot is still on them. lol. but the thing that really effects what rpm you upshift at is your rear end gear and what size tires you have. its a big picture effect. what works on one ride might/might not carry over to the next, or from person to person for that matter. the best thing to do which would take a lil bit of time is to fill the vehicle up with gas, and on that tank drive one style. and figure out the mpg and power you like ect. and on the next fill up do it again with another. and a few tanks of fuel you can see which styles gives you the best performance YOU like and which gives you the best mpg that your truck likes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Well...that would be a noticable improvement because you're on the highway traveling for a long period of time. I can even net 100 miles out of a quarter of a tank with a 4.0L on the highway. Around town is when the improvement should be noticable, if any.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 45
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From: Logan, UT
Where is the redline on the 2.3L ? After reading this disscusion I started shifting around 3500 aposed to my usual 3000. I noticed more power but it sounds like i am running the engine harder than i should for normal driving. I just don't want to wear my engine out prematurely by over reving or by lugging.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 727
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From: Mount Airy, NC
Well, that I'm not really sure of....you just have to sort of go by what's comfortable to you, and how the truck reacts. As I said in an earlier reply, I mainly go by sound and feel, so it's really up to you, so long as you're not lugging, I'd say you're good.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
The "redline" per the gauge is 5500. I'd suggest nothing higher than 5000 unless absolutely necessary. Similarly, the gauge redlines for the 4.0L at 5000, but I'd never take mine past 4500...there's a difference between what the engine will take brand new and what can be safely regularly done.
3-4K isn't too hard on the engine, the 2.3L was available in cars where it was geared to run 3K or so all day long without problems. Just don't run around with it at 4K or so all day long...that can get a little stressful in terms of using oil.
3-4K isn't too hard on the engine, the 2.3L was available in cars where it was geared to run 3K or so all day long without problems. Just don't run around with it at 4K or so all day long...that can get a little stressful in terms of using oil.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 31
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I once took off from a stop light running up to 6k and still pressing on the pedal for a couple seconds. I was thinking I was in first gear when I was actually in Neutral but couldnt hear the engine over my cranked music. I thought I was in first because I used to keep the clutch engaged when I stopped until someone told me that wears it out.
I dont know if since it wasn't in gear its not as bad but I didn't notice any problems.
I dont know if since it wasn't in gear its not as bad but I didn't notice any problems.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Well...in neutral especially it's not going to cause too many problems, you might get some valve float, but since it's not under load it won't kill it or anything. Some idiot on this forum a while back took a late 80s 351 and tossed a brick on the gas pedal while it was in neutral, ran for almost 10 minutes before tossing a rod, so even a few seconds at 6K is nothing notable really.
Now, doing it frequently, under load, on an engine that wasn't designed to sit there for that long, can quickly cause expensive problems.
Now, doing it frequently, under load, on an engine that wasn't designed to sit there for that long, can quickly cause expensive problems.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 1
Gentlemen, the 2.3/2.5 is not made out of glass. If you want to rev it, rev it. Limiter is 6250 rpm as are most Ranger engines. This little engine is tough. If you rev it sitting still, it will limit to around 3 to 3.5k. It is more or less id - 10 - t proof in this area. Take it to the limit occasionally to help keep the junk blown out of the system. Just don't lug it. As for the 3.0/4.0, same thing. Just don't overheat the 4.0. jd
Last edited by jimdandy; Apr 9, 2007 at 08:57 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
The limiter on the 2.3L might be 6250, but the limiter on the 4.0L is 5250, just a little nit-picking.
As Jim said, revving it out is great for one reason, clears the carbon out!
Also, as he said, autos will limit at 3K in park (and neutral?). Manuals will not limit before the redline.
As Jim said, revving it out is great for one reason, clears the carbon out!
Also, as he said, autos will limit at 3K in park (and neutral?). Manuals will not limit before the redline.