Wheel Bearings???
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 2
From: UT
What year? Front or Rear? '91 to '94 use a serviceable front bearing that can be repacked at regular intervals as suggested. '95 on up use a sealed bearing unit that can't be serviced and just gets replaced when it goes bad. '91 to '01 rear is a semi-floating axle in which the bearings are lubricated by the rear gear oil. Other than drain and refill the diff fluid, there's usually no need to perform other maintenance on the rear bearings. I'm not at all familiar with the '02+ rear setup, so I don't know what maintenance that needs.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Trending Topics
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
This might sound too obvious, but have you checked the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual?
Mike
Mike
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
when the bearing starts to spall it will make a small whinning noise. in a couple months it will be irritating inside the truck. it will howl after 20,000 more miles. dont worry, it wont fall off. you will get tired of listening to it and change it out before it ever failes in a critical manner. the owners manual dont say crap about the bearings, they are sealed for life and not maint can be done. what you determine is the definition of "life". i have a 96 that had one side go at 155,000 miles. i had a 2002 that had one side go at 85,000. i have a F150 with 160,000 and no problems to date. it is not a definite number on "life".
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Do I have bad bearings as well? My 2000 XLT 4dr, 4WD has 108K miles. New Michelins about 10K ago with new alignment - I see no evidence of any uneven wear. The truck starts to make a road noise that begins around 18mph, reaches maximum intensity around 44mph and drops down after 50mph. The sound is like some others have said in that it sounds something like I have very large mudders on. I can put the truck in neutral while moving- no change. Putting it into AWD has no effect. Turning left and straight has the sound - but turning right reduces the howl. The sound appears to be coming from the front (maybe left, but can't be sure). I've replaced the rotors before and know that this has the sealed bearing assembly. Before going thru the expense and labor or trying to replace - can I get some feedback on the likely cause? If it is a bearing assembly, then would Advanced Auto or Pep Boys be a better source than Auto Zone?
Thanks,
daggerNC
Thanks,
daggerNC
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
jack up the front end and take both brak calipers off. rotate each "hub' several times with a bar stuck between the lug studs. if one side gives a grinding or whizzing noise, then that is the bad one. compare both sides to get an idea of what is "normal" and what is "abnormal" it dont take a lot of noise at this low speed to make quite a racket at 50 MPH. I bought a hub thru e-bay for $100. for the front. It is twice that at Auto Zone. I would guess all "parts" stores have about the same price. Just make sure you buy the correct year hub.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fuquay Varina, NC
If I recall, to remove the hub that's the large nut that has to be removed - and what, about 125 lb-ft to put back on? I'll jack it up and test as per steve's procedure. f2fitty - guess I'll check with my local Ford dealer for the part - thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
the "hub" is actually a steel casting that bolts to the A frame with 3 metric bolts in a tringular pattern. the bearing presses into the casting and the "hub" is pressed into the bearing. .this allows the hub to rotate the casting with the bearing to remain stationary. the big nut holds the splined alxe into the center of teh hollow hub. you need to get the "big nut" off and also the 3 metric bolts that hold on the hub-casting, those are the tough ones. get an AMERICAN 6 pt -15 mm - box end wrench, and a 5 pound hammer to assist. I have a special CRAFTSMAN wrench i use to remove the bolts. they are loctite into place and some are about 250 ft pounds to break loose.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
