im changing the rear wheel bearings in my 1991 f150 ....and im wondering how to get the bearings out. I have a slide hammer but i have the bearing pulling part on it.

 

Take the wheel off, pull the drum. Remove the brake shoes out of the way. Remove the rear diff cover. Push the axle shaft in, then remove the c clip in the diff, at the end of the axle. I can not remember but you might have to take the center pin out of the carrier. The pin has a bolt in one end take out the bolt and the pin comes right the pin, and you can remove the spider gears. These will also give you room to get at the c clips. Then you can pull the axle shaft out. Remove the bearing seal, then you can pull the bearing out. You will need an inside puller. I used the slide hammer type. Put the new bearing in. Putting it in the freezer over night helps out. Tap the new bearing in with a rubber mallet. Put the new seal on.

Reverse the steps to put the diff back together, refill with oil.

 

This is an 8.8?

Don't remove the shoes, they are not in the way. The axles only need to slide in about 1/8".

Remove the differential cover, it's always a good time to replace your rear oil right? Make sure you have friction modifier if you have TracLoc limited slip.

With the transmission in neutral (You are safely on stands and not a jack aren't you? If not, get that way before you read further. Seriously.)

Spin the drive shaft or a wheel until you see the 4mm bolt that keeps the 1" (approx) diameter pin retained. If this seems unfamiliar to you, spin the drive shaft or a tire and watch all of the gears work. You will observe a quarter sized shiny flat spot that is actually an end of the pin you need to remove. Search and locate the bolt that is retaining the pin. Spin everything again so that; you can remove the bolt, and you can launch the pin as upwards as possible but it clears the entire housing. Don't spin anything or move the spider gears from this point on.

While still laying on your back, under the vehicle and watching the inside of the differential, use a toe (yes, the thing at the end of your foot) to pull the axle inwards. A C clip will be exposed. An extendable pocket magnet is perfect for grabbing it. It has no orientation and will have zero resistance and may even fall off if the C is facing straight up.

Do this for the other axle too.

Climb out from under the vehicle and pull each axle all of the way out. Keep them on their respective side. A catch pan or just a pile of rags is handy to keep under each axle end as some oil may drip, but not much.

Now is a good time to inspect your axles to decide if you need a "repair bearing" or not. Topic for a different thread.

Pry the old seal out. Use a screwdriver, the claw end of a hammer or one of them fancy "seal pullers" the mechanics that wear blue rubber gloves use. Nothing to salvage in this step.

The best sliding hammer design I've seen lately has different sizes of pivoting oblong discs at the end instead of reversed jaws. If you do get the jaw type, make sure it is a 3 jaw type.

Hammer slam (pull actually) the bearing out. Yes, the inner may come out first, then you collect all of the ball bearings and the cage pieces from the inside of the axle tube. Another good time to use your pocket magnet, for debris removal and clean up. It's a slide hammer...expect some medieval maneuvers and visceral carnage...just direct it away from the axle tubes.

This will take three hands until you figure out how to do it with only two. Place the new bearing (numbered or lettered side out) at the axle tube as squarely or evenly as you can with one hand, cover and hold it with a 2"x4" with the other, and tap the 2"x4" with a heavy hammer with the first hand. Pull the 2"x4 away and reorient the 2"x4 and the swing of the hammer to drive everything inwards straight.

When the 2"x4 is hitting the tube, the best thing to "seat" the new bearing all of the way into the tube as the old bearing. Even if it has been destructed and is only the outside race is useable.

Be much more gentle, but the same basic process, with the seal.

Do the entire seal, bearing removal and installation to the other side of the axle tube.

Carefully slide each axle back into the tube, and at the very last inch or so of insertion, "lift" or "tilt" the end of the splined axle shaft upwards so that it inserts into the gears in the housing underneath the vehicle.

Return under the vehicle to see both axles waiting for the replacement of the C clips. For both axles, just push the axles outwards and the C clips are captivated. The pin removed earlier should slip back in, and the captivating bolt reinstalled.

Don't remove the brake shoes, don't mess with the gears. Get in, get out, lubricate, get down the road.

 

Ok so I had to go to the junk yard today to get a new axle shaft cause one was bearing worn. mines a 1991 and I took it out of a lk 1994 ..the ends where the c lock goes looks alittle smaller then mine but I didnt think it really matters or am I wrong

 

Examine the junkyard axle thoroughly, I'd be surprised that the size of the button on the end of the axle is the only difference.

Count the number of splines, stand both on end next to each other and put the axle onto the removed wheel are quick easy checks. If these pass I'd get a set of measuring calipers and check some of the critical dimensions.

For what it is worth, a 'repair bearing' is available at most parts stores. It is a bearing and seal assembly all in one that positions the bearing onto a different part of the axle that is not damaged.

 

Thanks Leo jr, I have a1993 bronco and your reply and instructions were the first and exact of any other website I searched. I have a question though, when I got in I discovered the 4mm bolt was stripped so I had to close up for now, should I use a removal tool such as TURBO socket to extract it? I want to buy the replacement before I go back in, how long is it and do I need to special order it.

 

I don't remember the dimensions but I'd go to a Ford place for it. The bolt is threaded where it screws into the carrier and then smooth (no threads) where it goes into the pin itself. I believe it will come with some thread locker already on it.

Yours that is stuck likely has some loctite on it and someone may have used the really hard stuff by mistake. I think the torque is 25 ft pounds? Too many people way over torque these. There is no real load on this bolt, it is just keeping the pin from moving too much. Ford says to not reuse it, so getting a new one seems like a good idea anyway.

Do you have a propane torch? I'd apply the heat directly on the bolt head. There is not much in the area that you can overheat and the overall mass of the whole assembly will take forever to heat to a damaging level, so just concentrate it on the bolt head so that it and the metal it threads into get hot. Again, I don't think you can get it too hot, but you are trying to melt or cook the loctite loose.

Those Turbo sockets look like a good idea, likely depends if you get a good quality set. I've always had good luck with a good vice grips, but if you are successful with the Turbo socket I'll go get me a set.

Keep us updated!

 

After draining the differential for the second time, I still had no luck getting a grip on the bolt, just not enough area for vice grips. I tried the "turbo" socket, it's a great concept, but again I couldn't get any leverage. Aside from breaking down and taking it to a shop, any other suggestions? I bought the bolt from ford, I just need to get the old one out without damaging the threading.

 

I know this thread is a couple of years old (if not more) but I had a quick question: Do you have to pack the new rear bearings with grease like you do on the front?

 

From what I see in video's no BUT lube them with the oil you use for the diff. Cause the diff oil lubes those as the ring and pinion rotate.

 

Nope... but as mentioned above make sure you lube them with gear lube before you drive it. The bearings are oiled by gear oil that makes it's way down the axle tubes during operation.

 

Thanks! I got them in and now working on the rear leaf spring bushings. (fun)

 

A big C clamp, piece of pipe to put pressure on it, and a torch (regular propane works for me) to warm the metal so the rubber releases. With tension on the C clamp you can hear the rubber snap is it releases.