Hey everyone. I am new to this forum and have tried to read over all the other posts on rear windows. Most of them seemed to deal with older Bronco's rather than the newer ones (mine's a '92). Neither the key or the button for the window will make it roll down. It worked a right when I got it (a few weeks ago), but doesn't now. I took off the metal panel and the paper but can't seem to get a good look at anything up there still. Any suggestions on what is wrong? Have I dissembled the rear door as much as I can to look at it? I don't know my way around cars really well, so specifics would be helpful, thanks a lot.

 

did you check the fuse?

is the motor working, but not bringing the window up?

 

A bad dashboard switch can preven current from reaching the rear window, and render it inoperable. Go back through the pages and find my thread called "dashboard vs. tailgate switch" or something like that. I described how I fixed this. It may not be your problem, but it is a cheap (free) and easy fix if it is.

 

the fuse is what's right above the parking break right? I looked at that but I think the same fuse that goes to the rear window also goes to the power doors..and those work fine, so I don't think that's the problem.

I don't even think the motor is running...I couldn't hear anything anyway. Also....I don't know if the window will go up, since it's all the way up, it just won't go down. It doesn't seem to be getting any power though.

 

The rear window electrics have not changed in any of the Bronco's. The main differance is sone came equipped with a defroster in the rear glass which is just an extra wire.

Your problem (My money is on this) is that you have a broken wire/bad connection in the harness where the wire enter the tailgate.

You can "jumper" the rear window down with a "hot 12Volt" lead and touching the PINK/LIGHT GREEN wire. The window motor's in Fords work on switching the power from one side of the motor to the other. This is done by becoming a human pretzal and working through the open tailgate panel.

After you lower the window you can research out the bad connection broken wire. The window harness is routed through the Left rear tail light assembly and then under the truck.

Another thing that you should check is the plug assembly under the truck. If your truck has been run in any corrosive enviornment (ie. salt) then the wires tend to corrode and turn a nice shade of green inside the plug. This needs to be cleaned off.

Don't give up Good Luck.

Bob

 

Also, make sure your tailgate is fully closed. I installed a new motor in my tailgate, still didn't work. Then I read one the posts out here and it recommended to make sure the tailgate was fully shut on the driver's side. As soon as I got home, I looked at the tailgate and knew right away that was the problem. I pushed it shut and the window came right down with both the key and the dash switch.

One other note on the dash switch. During all this, I disassembled (carefully) the switch and cleaned the contacts. They are pretty burned up, so I'm sure I'll have to replace it soon, but it works great for now.

 

I do agree that the wiring to the gate could also be suspect. If both switchs quit at the same time, I would also suspect the interlock switch at the drivers side gate latch. Insert the key and push in near the latch and try the key switch. This interupts BOTH switches if is not working right. If this doesn't work, you'll have to check wiring. NOTE: there is a fuse for each switch. There are two power sourses, one for each switch, and they are different amps. The wiring: it uses reverse poliaroty, so its best to see a diagram. Haynes is THE one to get. Basicly, there is one great big ground circuit from switch to switch which the switches interupt, so its best look at a diagram.

 

Here is Chris's schematic:
http://www3.telus.net/cbradley/tailgatepowerwindowschematic.JPG

I looked at my 96's sch. in a Chilton's and the wiring codes look the same; will look again later when my stomach virus clears up.

 

One good way to tell if power is getting to the window-lift motor, is open your door so the dome light is on. Then try to lower window. If power is getting through to the motor, the amperage draw will dim the dome light each time you push on the switch.

 

I had this problem on my 94 Bronco and was partly due to a bad install on my trailer light connector and a bad dash board switch. I removed the trailer light connector and I got the window to work intermitently with the dash switch where as it did not work at all before. I checked the switch and it was bad. I also used a 12 volt battery and clipped it right on to the motor leads to make sure I did not have a bad motor, which was my first thought.