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Based on your questions I would highly recommend you take it to a shop. Unless you have experience and some big hammers,a vice, and a friend who has done the job before, you will find it to be an aggravating experiance!!
if you want to do it your self he means to mark the slip yoke right in front of the center bearing if you put that back in wrong it will cause a vibration i wouldent change the u joints unless they are gong my truck has 215,000 km. on it and i still have one original ford u joint in it
to line the ujoint up take some yellow marking paints or red white any will do [the stuff you mark parts and tires with and then mark the front yoke to the front drive shaft and do this as it is in the truck now the start at the rear and take it apart the carrierbearing will fall out if that bad now comes the hard part getting old race off hammer and punch and couple of your fav tasty brew after get off have another caues it was worth it now lets get the new one in place first look for any score mark you might have gotten if found the good file will get the buggers off now put new one on in the rev of taking old one off but this time find pipe that will slip over splines of shaft and giver hell now lets finish the beer we strted
the reason for marking the parts is if you are putting new ujoints in at this time this will keep them in time also keeps the vibs out
good luck to ya [please i'm not to good at spellin or punt so forgive]
Also when you bolt the carrier bearing to the cross member, have the driveshaft in a straight line from the transmission to the rear axle when viewed from the top or bottom.
Any deflection to either side can also cause vibration.
Good catch PLC. Agemenon, mark the universals at both ends, so that the same pieces go back in the same place as removed( a quick nick with a chisel on one side will mark where to put the caps back in place. then tape the loose caps in place on the cross. keeps out dirt,and the needle bearings in. Before sliding the spline apart where the two shafts join, mark them with a nick on each piece so they go back in the same place. this is all for ballance of the shaft. a quick check is to note that the universal crosses at both ends are pointing N.S.E.W. you don't want one end half way out from the other
i also had tis done. got the truck with rear yoke welded to worn out u-joint took both driveshafts to machine shop and found out rear driveshaft was bent. had new tube welded on rear driveshaft w/new yoke and new u-joints installed all around and balanced and painted pretty black with white arrows for alignment purposes all for about $185. drives smooth now. Before all this truck wouldnt go past 70 mph, now 80+ with more pedal left
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