Tranny Flush
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Tranny Flush
I have been reading posts on tranny's. 97 F250 4 x 4 E4OD tranny went out at 90000. had it rebuilt and it has been running fine. I'm at 130,000 and plan on keeping the truck - forever hopefully-. I know that the fluid and filter needs to be changed but when or what mileage does it need to be done again?
Great site- lots of help from yall!!
Great site- lots of help from yall!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
There really is no set schedule for F&F fluids in the tranny. But I would do it every 20-30K miles anyway. As you already discovered, it's the weak link.
The service manual does say this:
Change the transmission fluid and filter and seal assembly if a major repair, such as a clutch, band, bearing, etc., is required in the transmission.
The transmission fluid and filter and seal assembly should be changed every 33795 km (21,000 miles) under any of the following conditions:
sustained high-speed driving during hot weather (at or above 32° C [90°F])
towing a trailer for distances over 1609 km (1,000 miles)
accumulating 8047 km (5,000 miles) or more per month
continuous running operation, such as a delivery vehicle
The service manual does say this:
Change the transmission fluid and filter and seal assembly if a major repair, such as a clutch, band, bearing, etc., is required in the transmission.
The transmission fluid and filter and seal assembly should be changed every 33795 km (21,000 miles) under any of the following conditions:
sustained high-speed driving during hot weather (at or above 32° C [90°F])
towing a trailer for distances over 1609 km (1,000 miles)
accumulating 8047 km (5,000 miles) or more per month
continuous running operation, such as a delivery vehicle
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by immastrokinnow
some places offer a flush, is that worth doing along with the filter? or is it a waste of money?
The filter should always be replaced with a fluid change IMO. The pan has to come off to change the filter anyway. There is a small drain plug in the Torque converter, that will allow the remaining fluid out. The inspection cover on the bell housing has a rubber plug at the bottom. Rotate the engine by hand to expose it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
the great thing about our trucks is that they are very easy to do a tranny service on. the hardest part is dropping the pan without hosing your self in oil. that is easily remedied by installing a drain plug kit. then reinstall a new filter and clean the pan and factory reusable gasket and put it all back up there torqueing the bolts to 12 ft lbs. then you can pull the tin cover over the torque converter and use a bar or screw driver in flex plate ring gear untill you see the TC drain plug. pull that out wait till its done draining. put everything back together and fill it up at about 16 or 17 quarts. and your done.
you can fill it up then pull a cooler line and flush that with the truck running but unless its plugged (you have bigger issues to deal with if thats the case) there really isn't any need to.
you can fill it up then pull a cooler line and flush that with the truck running but unless its plugged (you have bigger issues to deal with if thats the case) there really isn't any need to.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,059
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From: Herndon KY
Engine and tranny flushes that use an oil thinner sludge remover are bad news IMO, you will not get all of the flushing agent out, and your next batch of oil is diluted. Especially on the engine. You have a quart of thinned oil, impregnated with a solution designed to break down the lubricating properties of your oil, sitting in your HPOP that is going to be mixed in with your new engine oil as soon as you crank it. Bad news. No fact just deep thoughts my $.02
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,065
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From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
well were on the topic what is the better filter brand and oil brand/type? For future reference!
i was told that if u drain the torque converter that your suppose to fill it up before starting... can u just add the (16 qrts is it?) to the tranny or do you have to fill the TC somehow?
i was told that if u drain the torque converter that your suppose to fill it up before starting... can u just add the (16 qrts is it?) to the tranny or do you have to fill the TC somehow?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Herndon KY
The torque converter is a self contained system. the fluid is all inside the converter and does not mix with the tranny fluid. the torque converter is a clutch, input and output shafts, and the clutching action is aided by the fluid. If you can drain the torque converter fluid I would think that you would have to pull the tranny to get the fluid back in, but I would guess that it is a sealed system, no in or out.
on a side note if you drain the transmission you must absolutely refill it before starting the engine, same as motor oil.
on a side note if you drain the transmission you must absolutely refill it before starting the engine, same as motor oil.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by bkcowboss
The torque converter is a self contained system. the fluid is all inside the converter and does not mix with the tranny fluid. the torque converter is a clutch, input and output shafts, and the clutching action is aided by the fluid. If you can drain the torque converter fluid I would think that you would have to pull the tranny to get the fluid back in, but I would guess that it is a sealed system, no in or out.
on a side note if you drain the transmission you must absolutely refill it before starting the engine, same as motor oil.
on a side note if you drain the transmission you must absolutely refill it before starting the engine, same as motor oil.
Fill the tranny with ~12 quarts of ATF, start the engine, adjust the fluid level to spec.
A drain plug kit is highly recommended, as Tim said, it makes the job very easy so you are likely to do it more often.
sorry about the misinfo, I am interested to see how it works.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Georgia
The torque converter is filled and fluid is pumped through it (during operation) by the transmission fluid pump (located in the front of the transmission). The torque converter actually engages into the pump when it is install into the transmission.
If the torque converter is drained or a new dry converter is installed, the easiest way that I have found to fill the transmission and not damage anything is: Add 7 quarts of transmission fluid to the transmission via the fill/check tube. Start the engine, "DO NOT REV" (immediately upon start up the transmission pump will fill the torque convert first, and then pump to the rest of the transmission) and add the rest of the required quarts of transmission fluid (minus 1 quart). Shift the transmission through the gears several times, check the fluid level and top off as needed.
If the torque converter is drained or a new dry converter is installed, the easiest way that I have found to fill the transmission and not damage anything is: Add 7 quarts of transmission fluid to the transmission via the fill/check tube. Start the engine, "DO NOT REV" (immediately upon start up the transmission pump will fill the torque convert first, and then pump to the rest of the transmission) and add the rest of the required quarts of transmission fluid (minus 1 quart). Shift the transmission through the gears several times, check the fluid level and top off as needed.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Georgia
To drain the torque converter: remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing, rotate engine (socket on crank or remote starter activation switch "recommended") until drainplug in torque converter is at the bottom, remove the plug, drain the fuild.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Rubber plug
My inspection cover on the bell housing had not a rubber plug at the bottom, so when I taked it out, I made a hole (2" ID) with a circular saw and put a rubber plug, so the next time I dont have to remove the inspection plate to get the drainplug of the torque converter at the bottom and remove the plug to drain the fuild.
