radiator questions
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: virginia
radiator questions
i noticed my radiator leaking in the upper right hand corner, so i took it to the shop to get some ideas from the mechanic. his diagnosis- the radiator needs to be replaced. he quoted 500 full install, which seems high, becasue he says "all you have to do is drain and unbolt the unit". he also said that if i kept adding water, it wasnt dierly necessary to make the change right away. is this correct
first- how hard is it really, to do this job? becuase i could do it myself and save the money
second- what is the difference between the different models that are around 200$, ie. what they are made of. is there any thing else i should know about this situation?
thanks
i have a 96 5.8 with the towing package(w/extra smaller radiator in front)
first- how hard is it really, to do this job? becuase i could do it myself and save the money
second- what is the difference between the different models that are around 200$, ie. what they are made of. is there any thing else i should know about this situation?
thanks
i have a 96 5.8 with the towing package(w/extra smaller radiator in front)
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
Changing the rad is pretty straight forward - probably a couple of hours allowing fro snags etc.
If you have the original viscous fan, remove it.
Then remove the cowl off the rad.
Drain rad and disconnect all hoses.
disconnect oil cooler pipes (this was the most difficult bit when I did mine)
Remove top two bolts
remove rad
Reverse of above to install.
Certainly not $500 worth of work.
I think I paid about $250 for a HD 4 core all brass rad last year from 1-800-radiator. I had a quick look now and they are quoting between $99 and $231 for your year.
Bare in mind the above instructions are based on my 92, a 96 MAY be different (thought can't all that different).
If you have the original viscous fan, remove it.
Then remove the cowl off the rad.
Drain rad and disconnect all hoses.
disconnect oil cooler pipes (this was the most difficult bit when I did mine)
Remove top two bolts
remove rad
Reverse of above to install.
Certainly not $500 worth of work.
I think I paid about $250 for a HD 4 core all brass rad last year from 1-800-radiator. I had a quick look now and they are quoting between $99 and $231 for your year.
Bare in mind the above instructions are based on my 92, a 96 MAY be different (thought can't all that different).
Last edited by muckypaws; Mar 29, 2007 at 06:44 AM. Reason: crap spelling!
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
after thought:
The difference between the prices is the materials and the 'spec'. I.e. my OEM was an aluminium core with plastic end tanks - these exploded so were replaced by an all brass version.
2nd is the number of cores throught the radiator. Teh cheap or OEM ones are 1 or two cores whereas the better HD ones are 4 cores. More cores = thicker rad = better cooling.
Simon
The difference between the prices is the materials and the 'spec'. I.e. my OEM was an aluminium core with plastic end tanks - these exploded so were replaced by an all brass version.
2nd is the number of cores throught the radiator. Teh cheap or OEM ones are 1 or two cores whereas the better HD ones are 4 cores. More cores = thicker rad = better cooling.
Simon
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
yeah, was not best pleased. I was in a queue of traffic on a single track road going into a huge firework party. I managed to limp it to a passing place or I'd have probably been lynched for blocking the road.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by muckypaws
after thought:
The difference between the prices is the materials and the 'spec'. I.e. my OEM was an aluminium core with plastic end tanks - these exploded so were replaced by an all brass version.
2nd is the number of cores throught the radiator. Teh cheap or OEM ones are 1 or two cores whereas the better HD ones are 4 cores. More cores = thicker rad = better cooling.Simon
The difference between the prices is the materials and the 'spec'. I.e. my OEM was an aluminium core with plastic end tanks - these exploded so were replaced by an all brass version.
2nd is the number of cores throught the radiator. Teh cheap or OEM ones are 1 or two cores whereas the better HD ones are 4 cores. More cores = thicker rad = better cooling.Simon
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 29, 2007 at 07:09 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Longview, TX
I pulled radiator to replace timing chain. Previous owner had replaced it with two core alum, plastic caps. I have trailer tow package and it works fine even towing at 100+ degrees. You do loosen the shroud but not the fan. The replacement radiator shroud bolt holes were about 3/8 too close together bending the shroud top down into hitting the fan. Redirilling holes in shroud was an easy fix. Have you considered replacing the clutch fan also? This would be the perfect time to do it. The "extra smaller radiator in front" of the A/C condensor is an extra transmission fluid cooler.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: South Carolina
I just replaced mine a month ago. I got a napa radiator, 2 core aluminum for $130. Same as the original which cooled just fine for me (even with the same leak you have). This was the first time i'd ever changed a radiator and it took me a few hours to replace it, I got hung up getting the transmission lines connected back...dang compression fitting plugs. It's all real trivial, just drain it, unbolt a couple of bolts, disconnect the hoses, pull it out and replace. Maybe worth $50 to pay someone to do it but certainly not $500.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern NH
I think that price is high too. I replaced mine last year for $495, but that included a new fan clutch and upper radiator hose, plus flushing the whole system and putting new coolant in. At the time, I thought I might have paid too much. Had to do it because I needed my truck.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
Ah, yes, that price might be a little high. I was basing my price on those suppliers I found who would ship to the UK. I'm sure you can get them cheaper when you actually live in the USA.
As for the copper/ brass debate, yes indeed it might have copper components in it too. Not scraped the black paint off yet ;-)
Simon
As for the copper/ brass debate, yes indeed it might have copper components in it too. Not scraped the black paint off yet ;-)
Simon
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
$200.00 sounds about right to me, a dealer would charge twice as much. Prices will vary due to several reasons. Most of the radiators that are US made come from the east, so shipping west is factored into the price. Some parts stores charge more than others for several reasons..quality beng one. If a radiator is cheap, it prolly was made in China.
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Senior User
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From: virginia
alright, so now lets talk about all of the different types of lines that go in and out of the radiator. what do i do with the lines that are not filled with radiator coolent. i really am concerned about what to do with all of the extra lines. isnt one a transmission coolent line? are there any others?
thank you all, very helpful.
thank you all, very helpful.