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I've searched and found nothing relating to my problem. I have a 97 F150 4.6 4x4 w/ tow package. Today I was pulling a 4000# trailer and noticed that the brakes were not working. I have a Drawtite Activator brake contoller that came from dad's old truck. He got the controller about 4 years ago new. My problem is that it started happening when my dad had it in his truck. The controller seems to work when it wanted to. When I hit the brake pedal the light comes on but is dim, the manual for the contoller says it can be a bad ground. If I use the manual control the light is brighter. So I am wondering what can be wrong with the controller? My dad said the controller did the same thing for him worked when it wanted too. Should I bight the big one and buy a new controller? In our suburban is a drawtite digital controller that works great. Could it be that my controller is old and has worn out?
Sorry for the questions, I'd like to have a safe experience while towing and know that i can stop.
If you tow alot, I would suggest going ahead and upgrade to a Prodigy controller. If the thing is intermittently working, I wouln't trust it to be there when an emergancy arises. http://www.etrailer.com/pc-SUMMERBG~...utm_medium=ppc
Thanks for the reply westtntrucker. Luckily I didn't have to do any panick stops. Thanks for the link. I'll take a look at it. One final question should I pick up a new adapter harness for my truck or use the one i have now? I am thinking i should pick up a new one.
I reread what you wrote and i don't actually tow that often. Maybe about 4 times a year i am pulling the trailer. Would it really be worth getting the prodigy then? I might get he same controller that my dad put in our suburban.
Edit: One question i have is that while i was looking at the drawtite is that it says a 30amp circuit breaker is required, now does my truck already have that in it since i have the tow package? I read the manual for my current one and it says that i must have a circuit breaker for the controller. When i got the controller from my dad i bought the pigtail lead to plug it into my truck.
Last edited by skilife17; Mar 28, 2007 at 03:28 PM.
If it didn't have the correct breaker/fuse, the breaker/fuse MIGHT open/blow. 30 amps is a LOT of current! If it is a breaker that resets, that would explain the 'sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I would first try to find the 'short circuit' that is causing the breaker to pop before I'd buy a new controller. Most likely, the trailer (or whatever you are hauling) has an intermittant short to ground.
I don't think it has anything to do with the trailer, the brakes on the trailer work fine with our suburban. I looked in my owners manual and it shows nothing for a circuit breaker, it has a 30 amp fuse for the trailer brakes and I checked it and it isn't blown. I remember now that even with the manual lever I didn't feel anything.
Since your dad had problems with the controller and now that you moved the controller to your truck and it still has a problem. I would say there is a problem with the controller. For safety sake. Just get a new controller, it only takes once to wish you had.
… i don't actually tow that often. Maybe about 4 times a year i am pulling the trailer. Would it really be worth getting the prodigy then?
Get a decent controller! It only takes one person pulling something dumb and you can't stop your truck/trailer combination to give you grief for the rest of your life.
Does your controller's harness plug into a factory connection under the dash? If so, the power should be coming thru that 30 amp fuse. Before you spring for a new controller, you need to make sure all the wiring (including ground) is up to the task.
Does your controller's harness plug into a factory connection under the dash? If so, the power should be coming thru that 30 amp fuse. Before you spring for a new controller, you need to make sure all the wiring (including ground) is up to the task.
Steve
Yes my controller plugs into the connection under the dash. I remember last summer when using the truck and the controller that when it was working correctly I could feel the difference when I changed the output or the sync control.
Other than checking the splices on the harness, I'd say it's time for a new controller; I also recommend the Prodigy with a plug-n-play harness specific to your truck (no splices). For both + shipping, figure around $110-$120.
Thanks Steina, I was looking at the link farther up and it would cost around $120 to ship to my house. I think the problem lies where i spliced the controller to the plug I bought for the truck.
Edit:
Thanks everyone for your insight on what to do. I decided to order the Prodigy to replace my now dead drawtite controller.
Last edited by skilife17; Mar 29, 2007 at 10:55 AM.
Let us know how you like the Prodigy; betcha you'll notice a BIG difference in trailer braking performance. While you're waiting, now might be a good time to make sure the trailer's brakes are adjusted correctly.
I'll let you guys know how it performs when i tow the trailer again. The controller should arrive about April 2nd or 3rd. I was talking with a tech at an RV dealer and he said that they are one of the best out there. He also told me that in a class he took w/20 others they all got Prodigy controllers for nothing. We found out a few things on the trailer too that the plug for the lights had a few wires loose inside. That might have led to the controller acting up, but I decided to replace it anyhow with something better.