Hello,

Just bought a 2002 F350 CC, 7.3, 6sp, DRW. So far, a great truck. I will use for occasional towing, and plan to add EGT and boost gauges. With the manual tranny, I don't think a trans temp gauge is necessary, but I'd like to add 3-4 gauges the make the best choice. My question concerns the OEM gauges. I've read that the OP gauge is driven by a switch. Can this be converted to a proper OP gauge on a 2002? Is water temp also a glorifed idiot light? Can this be converted? If the WT gauge is for real, I may add OP and OT to package. Comments?

Thanks,

Bob

 

Monitoring the LPOP is not as big of a deal on these trucks. The failure rate on them is extremely small. Also the coolant system is for a lack of a better word, "overkill" on our trucks. So coolant temp gauge wouldn't be at the top of priority either.

What these trucks don't have at all is fuel pressure monitoring. There is no sensor in the engine that reads fuel pressure, and no OEM gauge. If you are looking for that third gauge to get, go for a fuel pressure gauge.

Also ISSPro is coming out with an HPOP gauge soon. Might me something to look forward to. It's capable of reading up to 4000 psi. That would be a nice fourth gauge, it has "cool factor" written all over it.

 

on a manual I would go with a Pyro, boost, fuel pressure and manifold pressure for now...

 

Thanks for the input. Looks like fuel pressure is the recommended "third gauge."

Does anyone know if the 2002 SD OEM OP gauge can be modified to act as a real gauge? I read somewhere about converting the OEM OP gauge by replacing the sender and jumping a resistor, but recall that this is for earlier trucks.

Thanks,

Bob

 

I have seen it before done on a ranger modifying the gauge, not the sender. Get the fuel pressure gauge for the third gauge.

 

If you're going to tow, I think an engine oil temp gauge is very useful and even important if you do a lot of mountains. I've included a pic of where to put a sensor in the port on the oil filter housing, the white wire hooks to the temp sender. Banks says not to exceed 250 F at this location, which you can do if you pull too hard for too long up a steep grade in hot ambient temps. Readings of 235-240 are ok according to Banks.

 

ernesteugene, thanks for the advice, and the photo. I'm inclined to add the OT gauge as well. My objective for the gauges is to monitor/report on critical conditions that I can react to if things go out of range. In my racecar, this is OP, OT and WT. I think that the SD OEM WT gauge appears to read a range and is more than an idiot "light," and I agree with pocket that the cooling system is more than adequate. So, I'd lke to try and convert the OEM OP to a real gauge (anyone do this?) and then decide on gauges for the pillar. Boost and EGT are a given, maybe I'll add OT and FP.

Many thanks to all for the great feedback.

Bob

 

I used to race an A/H Sprite in SCCA GP, but that was 40 years age. There, OP was key because it gave an early warning of excessive bearing wear. I was reving to 7K rpm, and the rod bearings needed replacing on a regular basis.

I have a US Gear set up with 4 of their NPT temp senders all sharing a single oil temp gauge. I switch between them to monitor engine OT, diff OT, and the auto ATF temp in the tranny and in the return line from the cooler.

Even with your manual tranny you should consider an OT for it because those ZF's run hot, especially when towing. I've seen bolt on coolers for them that also add to their capacity.

 

You could convert the oil temp to a real gauge in the OBS trucks, but not in the SD. Oil temp is not really an issue either. I have pulled over 20,000#'s over some of the worst mountian passes and never seen over 230... with 37's and 3.73 gears and big injectors.

 

Is your oil temp sender located in the same place as mine? I'm beginning to think either something's wrong with my truck or maybe I've just encountered more severe conditions than most. Does your fan clutch fully engage during your readings, which indicates engine compartment temps of 205 F or higher?

 

Yup, side of the oil filter housing. Been there for two years now. Dont notice the fan but.

 

I'm not too fond of the face the 02's don't come with a volt meter, either. It would be nice to see if the alternator was beginning to have problems, rather than find out when your lights go dim and the idiot light comes on. I finally got the gauge and the 4 gauge pod for my truck; now to find the time to wire it in...

 

I think an amp meter would be a better choice.

 

I have a volt too...LOL but fuel pressure is more important then that.

 

CSI, what gauges do you have? I know you got alot but what do you got?