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John,
I can't confirm that # either, but Belden's Street rated wires with that magnetic supression capability are the ones to run with a breakerless Ign Sys from what I can tell. It's what I run on my Beater. That has 230Kmi & is on it's 3rd set . I believe they were around $30 +/- last time I bought them.
I believe the 8MM set has more insulation than 7MM's do. If you have a 7MM cap the 8MM don't "plug & play". So I'd stick with 7MM's & just keep on Truckin' . . . Huh?
Back to the original question about testing these wires.I belive in recycling when you can, If it aint broke dont throw it away.
Take a bucket of water, tape one end of the wire above the water level, and submerge the rest of the wire. hang the other boot over the side of the bucket or what ever you are using (making sure to keep the water out of the boots!). Stick one of the meter probs in the water and one in the boot of the wire ( you may have to wiggle the wire around in the water....using a stick or something). If there is a leak the ohm's scale will be off the chart.Slowly pull the wire out of the water until the ohm's zero out. If the leak is close to the boot you could shorten the wire up. If it is too short at that point you could swap it with one of your longer wires.
On a 351W there are 2 wires that you have to seperate and not have crossing each other or they will arc together (statically traveling the outside of the wire) even on a good wire. Because there are 2 cylinders that fire one after another that are side by side.
I do know you have an FE engine but this may help.
The two cylinders closest to the firewall on the drivers side, can have fire bleed if the wires are touching. I think it applies to several of the Ford engines. It is because of the firing order.
Now one of the problems that I am having is I have wire looms on my engine. This is turning into a real hemorrhoid.
Ok, I guess this would not apply to me. My 86 Bronco (351w) is running like crap. Thought maybe I was on to something. Pull #1 wire off at cap, no difference in how it is running. Same with #3. New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Pulled plug, put in wire and held to ground with truck running, yep, got fire. Pulled off valve cover. Everything is moving as it should. Borrowing a comp. tester in the morning, I don't think I want to know what it has to say. Exhaust is normal except for the miss(es). I'm pulling my hair out!
Oh yeah-All the plugs look the same-normal.
What was that about a windsor again? I have a problem in one of my broncos. Could you elaborate just a little on that?
He was referring to the fact that the factory correct was to route the wires on a Windsor is by separating the 7 and 8 wires as they go through the wire separator to their respective plugs. So in the wire separator, on top of the drivers valve cover, you order them as 5,7,6, and then 8. At the moment I am at a loss to be positive, but I know my 360 also has that same order for the drivers bank of wires.
One of the problems that I had when I started this thread was a worn out distributer. When I stuffed the Unilite back in my misfiring stopped. That dist was run as a test to see if the gas milage would increase with vacuum advance. I am gonna leave it alone for a while, and probably get a new set of wires on soon.
A 351W needs to have the 6/5 wires seperated. unless you have a bigger cam in it then it uses the 302 firing order and that would mean you need to have the 7/8 wires seperated.