My "88" Bronco 5.0(BRUTUS) seems to be having a problem with the heat in the Washington, DC Area. It is running hot only when I turn on the AC. I have replaced the Thermostat and the Radiator cap. It continues to run hot. It now just takes longer.

This problem seems to be effecting other areas, when the temperature exceeds the "M" on the temperature gauge my vehicle stalls as if I have run out of gas and eventually will not start. However, if I allow it to sit for 15 - 20 minutes it starts up with no problems and runs as if nothing ever occured. I first thought problem was a lack of fire. I replaced the spark plugs reset the timming to 10 degrees B and replaced the rotor cap and button.

This afternoon I went to the self serve car wash and turned BRUTUS off for ten minutes. I attempted to start it again, the idle speed fluctuated and it stalled. Then it would not start. I sat for 20 minutes and it started again with no problem.

I installed a "40 SERIES FLOWMASTER" on it last weekend. It has a 3" inlet and dual 2.25" outlets. Would this affect the temperature or the computer and cause the idle speed to be irratic?

The voltage display also decreases from 14.0 volts to 12.0 volts as the temperature incteases.

Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
JAB.

 

 

Hey ,just thought this might be a good check.I had an 88 GT that would stall and die set for about 20 or so go to and start and it would ,I replaced all kinds of ignition parts and even had the fuel pressure and injectors checked everything was fine. Come to find out it was the fuel pump over heating and shutting itself down.As far as the over heating I'm not sure but you could trya high performance thermostat with a lower temp its just a guess. I hope this helps.

The greengoblin

 

I had a similar problem with the fuel pump overheating on another ford car. Replaced it and everything was fine. As for the overheating, I would suspect some clogging in the radiator. Just enough to not keep the engine cool when the A/C is running, but not enough to affect normal engine operation without the A/C.

 

Today, I replaced the alternator, belt and ignition coil. My father in law informed me that bad ignition coils on ford's are famous for drawing excessive amperage, causing the vehicle alternator voltage to decrease and temperature to run hot.

After replacing the above parts I still have a decrease in voltage from 14.0 to 13.2 volts. Is this acceptable? In addition, will a faulty fuel pump decrease the voltage.

what is the cost of a fuel pump?

Has anyone else experienced this problem.

 

Stalling when hot is classic bubbles in fuel system (vapor lock) - check out the fuel pump and filter.

If your charging system is only putting out 13.2 volts, it would seem there is still an alternator/regulator problem. More that once, I have installed a 'new' re-man alternator only to find it was bad - or the regulator part was bad.

You need at least 13.7 volts to charge your battery, and the system should be at least 14 volts at the battery when running. I usually hook a digital voltmeter to the battery before starting - check the voltage - if it goes down after you start the engine - the alternator/regulator isn't working properly. If the charging system is working properly, you should be able to turn on all the electrical stuff (headlights, AC/Heater, radio, etc) and the voltage should remain around at least 14 volts.

Electrical problems are a real BITCH!

 

The decrease in voltage only occurs when I turn on the AC, and the voltage gradually decreases. At other times it stays around 14.0 volts. However, I will go to a ford dealer tomorrow and attempt to obtain a rebuild kit. Have you heard of any?

I will also replace the fuel filter tomorrow and see if this solves the stalling problem.