Has someone tryed the 10k mod on a 6.0?

 

Can I ask what the 10K mod is....or I'm losing it to be exact.

 

On the old 7.3 people put a 10k resistor on the ICP sensor signal wire to fool the computer to raise the injection press.

http://www.forgotton.net/mods/index.html

or the sensor safe version



OK, I?ve finally come up with a sensor-safe modification of my modified 10K mod. Just in time for Daytona too!


The problem with the original clamp circuit, a 470ohm resistor and three diodes in series connected from the ICP sensor output to ground, was potential damage to the sensor due to overloading when it senses maximum pressure when backing down from full throttle at high RPM. Without access to the sensor specs I thought it better to err on the safe side than take any chance of turning your Ford into Found-On-Road-Dead

I?m basing this redesign on the fact that lots of guys have run the 10K mod probably for years, some with even lower value resistors, and, to my knowledge, no one has reported a sensor problem. The new circuit actually produces less sensor load than the 10K mod.

The bad news is that we have to cut the wire from the sensor to insert the series resistor which protects the sensor. The good news is that sensor-safe clamp (#2) works just as good at idle, not affecting it at all, and measurably better (9.9s) in my 0-60 tests. (9.9s is the same time my SCMT ran on +70 HP). Note that programmers and chips can also change automatic transmission shift schedules, my circuit can?t.

Stock ------ 12.6s (2WD)
Stock ------ 13.1s
10k mod --- 10.6s
Clamp #1 -- 10.1s
Clamp #2 -- 9.9s

Parts list, as available at Radio Shack:
1 5.6K 1/2W resistor # 271-1125, (could be 1/4W)
1 1.0K 1/4W resistor # 271-1321
3 1N4001 diodes # 276-1101
1 pkg heat-shrink tubing # 278-1627

I recommend all connections be done by soldering and heat-shrink tubing be used on all exposed wires.
Connect the 1K resistor and the three diodes in series with the banded ends of the diodes in the same direction. (If you made the 470ohm version, replace the 470 with the 1K.)

------ 1K -------->|-------->|-------->|--------

Locate the ICP sensor ?output to PCM? wire, it?s either BLU/GRN or BLU/RED. (If you unlatch the connector from the sensor and look at the connector, it will be the center pin.) This is the wire you?ll be cutting, so I recommend untaping the plastic conduit and pulling the wires out for more working room. If you?re neat about it you can make the cut under the conduit for a ?who me?? hiding job. Cut the wire and connect the 5.6K resistor in series. (The resistor does nothing by itself so it can stay in permanently even if you remove the rest of the circuit later.)

Connect the 1K end of the 1K/diodes circuit to the PCM end (not the ICP sensor end) of the 5.6K resistor. Solder.

The banded end of the third diode connects to ground. If you connect it at the sensor, use the GRY/RED wire. (You will not be connecting to the BRN/WHT (5volt) wire.) You may also add a Clamp/Stock switch instead. If so, attach a length of wire to the end diode and run it thru the firewall to an SPST switch in the cab. (I?ve seen ?customer use? wires dead-ended under the dash and hood that could be used.) Connect the other switch terminal to a frame ground under the dash.

(Inserted April 13, 2004. On second thought, since this circuit operates at very low voltages where millivolts can make a BIG difference, it would be best to run the ground wire from the switch back to the GRY/RED wire at the ICP sensor instead of connecting it to the frame under the dash.
This would eliminate any "ground loops," small differences in ground voltage at different points on the vehicle that can drive electronics crazy. They not only vary from vehicle to vehicle, but may change with time and mileage!)

To find out which position of the switch is ON or OFF, push that pedal under your right foot down and flip the switch. You?ll know! The installation on this circuit a little more complex, but I guarantee it?ll put a smile on your face and keep your ICP sensor happy too!
toptuner

 

Wondered what you were talking about..... Nope it don't work

We use custom tuning instead to get the most out of the 6.0L

 

Some of the vendors sell a version of the 10K for the 6L...It is the same mod as the 10K mod, It justs bumps the Injector pressure, But it does make the injectors rattle...