Lost Keys
#1
#2
Welcome to FTE
Did the ignition key match the doors (it did originally)? If so, pull one of the door lock cylinders out, a new key can be cut from that. The cylinders have 5 removable tumblers. The length of the tumblers relate to the depth of the cuts of the keys. Take the cylinder to a good lock shop, there is no reason a new key cannot be cut.
New lock cylinders can be bought from NAPA, you might consider buying a new complete set, as the old tumblers are prolly worn...then there's the chance of someone finding your keys....
Did the ignition key match the doors (it did originally)? If so, pull one of the door lock cylinders out, a new key can be cut from that. The cylinders have 5 removable tumblers. The length of the tumblers relate to the depth of the cuts of the keys. Take the cylinder to a good lock shop, there is no reason a new key cannot be cut.
New lock cylinders can be bought from NAPA, you might consider buying a new complete set, as the old tumblers are prolly worn...then there's the chance of someone finding your keys....
Last edited by NumberDummy; 03-24-2007 at 02:51 PM.
#4
#5
No, Mitch, the core must be rotated to remove it.
There is a lip and a slot in the back of the core that engages the switch housing. That lip and slot keep the core from pulling out.
Rotating the core past the slot disengages the lip.
There is a small brass pin under the front face of the core that keeps the core from rotating past that lip under normal circumstances.
Pushing the pin down through the ppin hole in the face of the core (with the key in the Acc position) allows the core to rotate past the normal spot, and pull out.
Drilling the tumblers out will let it turn as though there is a key, but I haven't seen one drilled out that didn't ruin the switch housing, because it is also made out of soft pot metal. It is VERY easy to go into the housing while trying to drill out the tumblers.
Good luck on getting a key, ND gave you the best advice, I think.
There is a lip and a slot in the back of the core that engages the switch housing. That lip and slot keep the core from pulling out.
Rotating the core past the slot disengages the lip.
There is a small brass pin under the front face of the core that keeps the core from rotating past that lip under normal circumstances.
Pushing the pin down through the ppin hole in the face of the core (with the key in the Acc position) allows the core to rotate past the normal spot, and pull out.
Drilling the tumblers out will let it turn as though there is a key, but I haven't seen one drilled out that didn't ruin the switch housing, because it is also made out of soft pot metal. It is VERY easy to go into the housing while trying to drill out the tumblers.
Good luck on getting a key, ND gave you the best advice, I think.
#6
If you cannot get a locksmith and the vehicle in the same place at the same time, take the whole ignition switch to a good locksmith. He will be able to pick the switch and then use the technique that banjopicker66 describes to dis-asemble the tumbler. If he makes a key to suit your tumbler, you will not have different keys for the ignition & doors. If your stuff is worn out, Bill's suggestion is a good one.
I once picked the lock, removed the tumbler, and took it in to have a key made. The locksmith wanted to know how I knew how to do that - it is supposed to be a secret that only locksmiths know. This was in CA and I had to sign a sworn statement that I was the owner of the vehicle before he could legally make me the keys.
I once picked the lock, removed the tumbler, and took it in to have a key made. The locksmith wanted to know how I knew how to do that - it is supposed to be a secret that only locksmiths know. This was in CA and I had to sign a sworn statement that I was the owner of the vehicle before he could legally make me the keys.
#7
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#8
First and foremost!!!, welcome to FTE. Unfortunately, can't remove ign switch w/out the key. Concur ND's advise is the best route if ign. and door keys are the same. Had simular problem and ended up having to drill out the ignition cylinder, was not able to salvage the switch. Replaced ign. switch and cylinder w/ set of keys that also matched door locks.
dave
dave
#9
#11
Believe the same is true for 61 thru 66, where the switch is secured to dash by the ignition switch bezel, and the cylinder holds the componets together. Once the cylinder is removed you can rotate the bezel and remove the switch. Suggest rather than rotate the bezel you hold the bezel and rotate the switch from the back and prevent excess scratches to the paint on dash.
dave
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; 03-25-2007 at 07:55 PM.
#12
#13
Originally Posted by acheda
Dave,
Time for me to learn something new: Is the reason you can't remove the whole switch without the key because '66 is the first year for the big, double-edged keys? (My '65 still had the old keys, so I thought that '66 did too.) thx
Time for me to learn something new: Is the reason you can't remove the whole switch without the key because '66 is the first year for the big, double-edged keys? (My '65 still had the old keys, so I thought that '66 did too.) thx
F Series Trucks & Econolines: 1967/
To remove cylinder and keys from switch...remove battery cable...press forward on rear of switch...remove bezel..switch will drop from dash. The original Ford switches have a spring on the rear to retain pressure on the bezel. I've never seen or heard of anyone removing the cylinder and keys from an ignition switch with the bezel in place...it can't be done.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 03-26-2007 at 03:44 AM.
#14
Bill, One must remove the cylinder first.
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
#15
Originally Posted by jowilker
Bill, One must remove the cylinder first.
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Maybe I'm thinking of cars, now you got me wondering!
Last edited by NumberDummy; 03-26-2007 at 05:57 AM.