Lost Keys
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Seattle, Washington
Lost Keys
I have lost the keys to my 1966 F-100. The locksmiths that I've talked to say they can't make a new key for it. Has anybody experienced the same thing? What is the best solution?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Welcome to FTE
Did the ignition key match the doors (it did originally)? If so, pull one of the door lock cylinders out, a new key can be cut from that. The cylinders have 5 removable tumblers. The length of the tumblers relate to the depth of the cuts of the keys. Take the cylinder to a good lock shop, there is no reason a new key cannot be cut.
New lock cylinders can be bought from NAPA, you might consider buying a new complete set, as the old tumblers are prolly worn...then there's the chance of someone finding your keys....
Did the ignition key match the doors (it did originally)? If so, pull one of the door lock cylinders out, a new key can be cut from that. The cylinders have 5 removable tumblers. The length of the tumblers relate to the depth of the cuts of the keys. Take the cylinder to a good lock shop, there is no reason a new key cannot be cut.
New lock cylinders can be bought from NAPA, you might consider buying a new complete set, as the old tumblers are prolly worn...then there's the chance of someone finding your keys....
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 24, 2007 at 02:51 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,423
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From: Clarksville,Tn
John; I don't recall, but can you remove your ingnition tumbler without a key? I know you normally use your key and a fine thin wire (paper clip) in the pen hole to remove the ingnition.
Just a thought.
Mitch
Just a thought.
Mitch
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
No, Mitch, the core must be rotated to remove it.
There is a lip and a slot in the back of the core that engages the switch housing. That lip and slot keep the core from pulling out.
Rotating the core past the slot disengages the lip.
There is a small brass pin under the front face of the core that keeps the core from rotating past that lip under normal circumstances.
Pushing the pin down through the ppin hole in the face of the core (with the key in the Acc position) allows the core to rotate past the normal spot, and pull out.
Drilling the tumblers out will let it turn as though there is a key, but I haven't seen one drilled out that didn't ruin the switch housing, because it is also made out of soft pot metal. It is VERY easy to go into the housing while trying to drill out the tumblers.
Good luck on getting a key, ND gave you the best advice, I think.
There is a lip and a slot in the back of the core that engages the switch housing. That lip and slot keep the core from pulling out.
Rotating the core past the slot disengages the lip.
There is a small brass pin under the front face of the core that keeps the core from rotating past that lip under normal circumstances.
Pushing the pin down through the ppin hole in the face of the core (with the key in the Acc position) allows the core to rotate past the normal spot, and pull out.
Drilling the tumblers out will let it turn as though there is a key, but I haven't seen one drilled out that didn't ruin the switch housing, because it is also made out of soft pot metal. It is VERY easy to go into the housing while trying to drill out the tumblers.
Good luck on getting a key, ND gave you the best advice, I think.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
If you cannot get a locksmith and the vehicle in the same place at the same time, take the whole ignition switch to a good locksmith. He will be able to pick the switch and then use the technique that banjopicker66 describes to dis-asemble the tumbler. If he makes a key to suit your tumbler, you will not have different keys for the ignition & doors. If your stuff is worn out, Bill's suggestion is a good one.
I once picked the lock, removed the tumbler, and took it in to have a key made. The locksmith wanted to know how I knew how to do that - it is supposed to be a secret that only locksmiths know. This was in CA and I had to sign a sworn statement that I was the owner of the vehicle before he could legally make me the keys.
I once picked the lock, removed the tumbler, and took it in to have a key made. The locksmith wanted to know how I knew how to do that - it is supposed to be a secret that only locksmiths know. This was in CA and I had to sign a sworn statement that I was the owner of the vehicle before he could legally make me the keys.
Fleet Owner
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
First and foremost!!!, welcome to FTE. 
Unfortunately, can't remove ign switch w/out the key. Concur ND's advise is the best route if ign. and door keys are the same. Had simular problem and ended up having to drill out the ignition cylinder, was not able to salvage the switch. Replaced ign. switch and cylinder w/ set of keys that also matched door locks.
dave
Unfortunately, can't remove ign switch w/out the key. Concur ND's advise is the best route if ign. and door keys are the same. Had simular problem and ended up having to drill out the ignition cylinder, was not able to salvage the switch. Replaced ign. switch and cylinder w/ set of keys that also matched door locks. dave
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Elder User
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Dave,
Time for me to learn something new: Is the reason you can't remove the whole switch without the key because '66 is the first year for the big, double-edged keys? (My '65 still had the old keys, so I thought that '66 did too.) thx
Time for me to learn something new: Is the reason you can't remove the whole switch without the key because '66 is the first year for the big, double-edged keys? (My '65 still had the old keys, so I thought that '66 did too.) thx
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Believe the same is true for 61 thru 66, where the switch is secured to dash by the ignition switch bezel, and the cylinder holds the componets together. Once the cylinder is removed you can rotate the bezel and remove the switch. Suggest rather than rotate the bezel you hold the bezel and rotate the switch from the back and prevent excess scratches to the paint on dash.
dave
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Mar 25, 2007 at 07:55 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Thanks John & Dave. I guess I am losing my memory - "lost in the fifties", when you could do that. I now remember that I had to pick my '61 to turn counter-clockwise as you describe.
Last edited by acheda; Mar 25, 2007 at 07:59 PM. Reason: add info
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by acheda
Dave,
Time for me to learn something new: Is the reason you can't remove the whole switch without the key because '66 is the first year for the big, double-edged keys? (My '65 still had the old keys, so I thought that '66 did too.) thx
Time for me to learn something new: Is the reason you can't remove the whole switch without the key because '66 is the first year for the big, double-edged keys? (My '65 still had the old keys, so I thought that '66 did too.) thx
F Series Trucks & Econolines: 1967/
To remove cylinder and keys from switch...remove battery cable...press forward on rear of switch...remove bezel..switch will drop from dash. The original Ford switches have a spring on the rear to retain pressure on the bezel. I've never seen or heard of anyone removing the cylinder and keys from an ignition switch with the bezel in place...it can't be done.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 26, 2007 at 03:44 AM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Bill, One must remove the cylinder first.
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by jowilker
Bill, One must remove the cylinder first.
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Removing the battery cable is a good idea.
The cylinder must be turned to the ACC position. (Regardless of how you are able to get it there.)
Once in the ACC pos. push a paper clip into the hole in the face of the cylinder and continue to turn it flat. The cylinder is now aligned to be removed. It can be stuck and not want to come out but is correctly positioned.
Get the cylinder out and then follow Bill's instructions.
John
Maybe I'm thinking of cars, now you got me wondering!
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 26, 2007 at 05:57 AM.