OK, I broke the cable off right inside the pedal so I got new cables. I got everything together with no trouble until I got to threading the front cable around and into the cable. None of the books I have show the path for the cable. I got it to where it works like it should and then connected all the cables, and reinstalled the pedal assemble. It was tight as a drum. The problem is I have no brake. Is there/should there be an ajustment? Is there a diagram for how the cable should be routed? Any help would be great. I need the brake to get my new boat in the water!!! Thanks.

Eric

 

OK I did some research (a search for EBrakes) and found all the info about the autoadjuster on this model. What a stupid idea. So my problem is that mine is not auto-adjusting.

I was an inch short like everyone said. I removed the pedal assembly, loosened the rear brake adjusters all the way. Connected everything. And was able to get the front screw on the pedal asembly in place. With the help of a trusty pry bar I got everything back together. Readjusted the shoes/drums and put it all back together. I still cannot get the ebrake to tighten. Any suggestions? I've already driven around the block backwards, stopping every few yds (the neighbors must have thought I was stupid!!!)

 

Bump...

anyone? suggestions/

 

I have a f250 with the ratchet adjust e brake, although that part works different the mechanics at the rear end is basicly the same.
Remove the rear wheels and drums.
Locate the lever in the rear brake assy that attaches to the ebrake cables.
That lever gets pulled toward the front of your truck when the ebrake is appliled. It will spread the brake shoes to make contact with the drum.

Apply the ebrake all the way (don't depress the brake pedal!!!!). If you have someone to help you it works to have them hold the ebrake release and push the ebrake pedal up and down so you can see how it works. After you see how it works push the pedal to the floor and leave it there.
Check the position of the lever. It should be all the way against the hub....
The lever is curved.....It's curved to clear the hub.
If it is against the hub, try puting the drum on.....If the brakes are adjusted right you shouldn't be able to get the drum on.
If the lever isn't against or closer than 1/8 inch of the hub you have a length problem with the cables.
Where the cable coming from the pedal assy joins to a (T) and the right and left ebrake lines take off and go to the rt and left brakes is there an adjustment??????
It is my understanding that the ebrakes that have the ratchet will not have the adjustment at the(T). So you should have an adjustment.
Check the following link.....You'll like it.

How the Ebrake works

While the link shows how it works the mechanical linkage is a little different on our rigs. This is to give you an Idea of how they work.

Keep us informed...

Jim

 

If your rear brakes are adjusted too loose they will not auto adjust.
To auto adjust you should back up and apply the brakes, go forward and apply the brakes. That rocks the brake shoes CW and then CCW.
After you resolve the travel issue with the ebrake lever, readjust the star wheel for proper drum clearance.

 

Thanks, I have tried all that. Also, I do not have the adjustment. It is just the front pedal cable to the intermediate cable, to the T, to the wheels. I think maybe I didn't route the cable right through the pedal (when it broke, it pulled out so I could not see how it was routed and I cannot find any diagrams) or there is a problem with the pedal assembly. When I depress the pedal I am not getting enough travel...it is not pulling the shoes open. I had a truck with the manual adjuster at the T...it was so much easier. This auto adjust thing is STUPID!

 

So the lever isn't getting close to the hub?
Seems that if the cable was 1 inch short that it would make the ebrake try to engage by that much.
I agree, that autoadjust is a real POS.....There is a tsb recall on this item....did you know that? Also there is one that re-routes the cables going into the rear back plates. The solution for it skipping is to install a wedge in the assy to keep it from skipping.
My ebrake is marginal.....it really sucks.
When working on the ebrake care should be taken that the lug on the end of the cable where it attaches to that lever I talked about doesn't get cocked sideways....It happens easily.....just be aware. It does make your ebrake work but causes the brakes to drag..and pull.


Jim

 

I will try again, but as I recall the guy I was working with checked the lever...with the brake applied I could still get the drum on...it didn't engage at least not enough. I am going to call the local Ford dealer today and see if they have any suggestions...ESP regarding the recall...I know it was a long time ago, but even a blind squirrel gets a nut sometimes