Heres a question fer ya
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Senior User
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From: southern Il
Heres a question fer ya
My front tank has a new pump, but now needs a sending unit (fuel gauge bounces) rear tank pump went out. I don't need or want the rear tank. Can I get rid of it and all the extra switching crap that allows you to have 2 tanks. I'd like to just have the front tank with 1 pump going thru the filter supplying the engine then returning to the front tank. Take the other junk out of the equasion. Will this work. Now for the 2nd part of the question. If I can do this can I use the rear tanks sending unit if its good to put in the front tank or are they different. Thanks Todd.
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From: southern Il
What about the other part of the question LOL. I cant see why I couldnt tear the useless crap out & just have 1 tank 1 return line & 1 supply line. Then pull the switching stuff out, do you?
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From: southern Il
I just had another thought. How cool would it be if I put a small drain or petcock type thing in the bottom of the rear tank & used it for fuel storage. I could also carry one of those syphon hoses & run from one to the other when in a pinch or keep a small 1 or 2 gallon can in the truck box. I can tell its getting late. LOL
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As far as the tank selector switch, I would just leave it intact, otherwise you are going to spend time tracing down the lines to the tank as well as some splicing. Keep this in mind though.........you may be able to purchase just the sending unit replacement for your front tank and continue to use them both as it was designed. I have been in the parts business for many years and it is not uncommon to purchase just the sending unit. At least I know you can do this on many GM vehicles. If this is the case, you may be able to get out relatively cheap. Call your local Ford dealer and ask if you can purchase just the sending unit. That is the only place it would be available.
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From: southern Il
auto zone has one for 103.00 dollars. I also need a rear pump. I dont want or need the rear tank. I was just thinking that maybe there was a way to isolate everything to just the front tank & get rid of the switch valve, relays etc. If anyone has an idea on how to do it please let me know. Thanks.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by toddol1971
auto zone has one for 103.00 dollars. I also need a rear pump. I dont want or need the rear tank. I was just thinking that maybe there was a way to isolate everything to just the front tank & get rid of the switch valve, relays etc. If anyone has an idea on how to do it please let me know. Thanks.
You can just take the tank off and replace your selector valve reservoir with the filter only reservoir out of a BII 86-88 (from a salvage yard, no moving parts) or a single tank truck. No need to plug any lines, just take them off with the tank. Tape up the wires going to the tank you take off and leave the dash switch on the tank you have left. You can also get a jumper plug out of a truck that has one tank in a salvage yard and plug it into the wires that were on your dash switch. If you do this check the wire colors as I think the one-tank trucks used the rear tanks wires.
You will still need the relay and inertia switch for the tank you keep.
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I would keep the tanks the way they were suppost to be. Its much easier to repair it to work properly than to try to eliminate the extra stuff that goes with the rear tank. It seams you want to get rid of potential problems with the rear tank but in reality you are creating more by trying to remove it.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by toddol1971
thanks I'll look into it.
You might want to check the wiring at the starter solenoid going to the clutch and on to the EEC as this will cause high and spiked idle.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Ashland City, TN
blocking off the rear lines is a pain if you want to go that route, I had to do this when I replaced my rear tank on my 91. I think i spent an afternoon trying to get stuff not to blow out of the line.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Talyn
blocking off the rear lines is a pain if you want to go that route, I had to do this when I replaced my rear tank on my 91. I think i spent an afternoon trying to get stuff not to blow out of the line.
Yours is completely different.
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From: southern Il
Originally Posted by subford
You said something about idle spikes while shifting in another post.
You might want to check the wiring at the starter solenoid going to the clutch and on to the EEC as this will cause high and spiked idle.
You might want to check the wiring at the starter solenoid going to the clutch and on to the EEC as this will cause high and spiked idle.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by toddol1971
Thanks for the tip. What will I be looking for though. I didnt realize there was wiring going to the clutch from the starter solenoid. Are you talking about wiring going to a switch under the dash?
Originally Posted by toddol1971
Wheres the eec?
What happens is when the clutch is pushed in (or an auto is put in neutral) this information goes to the Computer and it will change the position of the IAC valve to change the idle down to a lower RPM.
If this circuit is open then the computer thinks you are still in gear and ups the idle.
Here are some diagrams of the circuit.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g91/subford/Electrical/Starter/88Clutch_NuSwitch.gif
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rter/PG025.jpg
Last edited by subford; Apr 4, 2007 at 09:56 AM.