351W Issues, I need your help!
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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boy thats small............should be good down low ..pull right off idle..1/4 turn is fine....
I set mine up with the intake off. I turn the nut till I see the plunger in the lifter start to move off the retainer that holds it in. Then a go 1/4 turn on high rpm motors and 1/2 turn on low rpm motors.
I set mine up with the intake off. I turn the nut till I see the plunger in the lifter start to move off the retainer that holds it in. Then a go 1/4 turn on high rpm motors and 1/2 turn on low rpm motors.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Yeah that's what I thought about the cam. I trusted what Scott told me. He asked me everything about the truck and that all factored in. He said that the operating range was 1000 to 5000 RPM's and that it would have a very flat torque curve. Should pull real good up to 5000. We'll see. At this point I'm not impressed but I am happy with it. I really haven't had a chance put it through the ringer. I really have a good first impression with Cam Res. I am hoping that that impression continues. I was concerned about not getting the most out of my heads and he said that I would be fine. I don't know, hopefully it does what I want it to do. My truck weighs 5800lbs, 4.10 gears, C-6, 4x4, D70 rear - D50 front, ext.cab long bed. I use it for hauling wood and towing 4-5 tons every once in a while. I'm also goin to dabble with some local 4x4 truck pulls this summer to see what that's like. My buddy that helps me with my truck, pulls and it's awesome to watch, so maybe I'll like pullin. Boy sure sounds like it can be expensive though.
Yeah, I just set mine with the intake off as well.
Do you still think the cam's small for my application?
Yeah, I just set mine with the intake off as well.
Do you still think the cam's small for my application?
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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Hemi was right on bout the oil we use. I have had great success w/GM EOS engine oil supplement in the oil before the first change. It is high in zinc. I know I know GM but I was a tech for Chev and Cadillac years back. EOS is a small pint additive. Rottella is also good as listed in another reply.
Can't speak for Comp but some cams aren't hardened like in the past. Days of old the surface hardening was .040" some came w/a phosphate coating on the lobes aswell. Another thing to consider w/the flat tappet hyd lifers is the spring pressure. High spring pressure can eat a flat tappet cam in a hurry. Just my opinion.
Can't speak for Comp but some cams aren't hardened like in the past. Days of old the surface hardening was .040" some came w/a phosphate coating on the lobes aswell. Another thing to consider w/the flat tappet hyd lifers is the spring pressure. High spring pressure can eat a flat tappet cam in a hurry. Just my opinion.
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The springs that I am using are the springs that came with my Windsor Sr. heads. I bought the fully assembled heads. Everybody that I talked to about a cam said that those springs were fine including Cam Research. I don't know what the specs. are on the springs right off.
I ran the new cam between 2000 and 3000 rpm's for about 16-18 mins. I varied the RPM's periodically, between 2000 and 3000 RPM's, throughout this time frame. This is what the paper work said to do that came with the cam. After breakin I immediately changed the oil filter and then I restarted it and set the idle and timing. Timing was actually really close. Good guess I suppose.
When should I change the oil? Should I do it at 500 miles again like before? I was running Penzoil 10W-30 before the cam change. What do you guys recommend?
I ran the new cam between 2000 and 3000 rpm's for about 16-18 mins. I varied the RPM's periodically, between 2000 and 3000 RPM's, throughout this time frame. This is what the paper work said to do that came with the cam. After breakin I immediately changed the oil filter and then I restarted it and set the idle and timing. Timing was actually really close. Good guess I suppose.
When should I change the oil? Should I do it at 500 miles again like before? I was running Penzoil 10W-30 before the cam change. What do you guys recommend?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,656
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cut the filter open you took off after brake in...look for bad things deep in the folds...I wont say it, just look ..
500 is ok but I like to change it at 50 just to check for (i wont say it)...,.,.,.,man I hate flat tappet cams.....
you should be ok...hows it run?
500 is ok but I like to change it at 50 just to check for (i wont say it)...,.,.,.,man I hate flat tappet cams.....
you should be ok...hows it run?
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Senior User
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lol, okay let's get it out in the open Hemi. What kind of stuff should I be looking for? Metal shavings, half the cam, two or three pistons, gobbled up chebby, neighbors cat, what are we talkin here? 50 miles for real? Man that oil is $3.50 a quart or more. Maybe a small price to pay if I catch a problem early enough though. It runs decent. I will honestly say that I'm not overly impressed at this point. But I am happy and satisfied. I really haven't had a chance to get it out and play yet. I still have about 700-800lbs in the bed and my plow on the front. I'll take your advice and see what I come up with. I won't be able to get to it until this weekend though.
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JMO, if the Windsor Sr. heads have dual springs they might be 125# or more on the seat. This is a bit high for a flat tappet hyd. cam for break in at least. If they are dual springs pull the inner spring out, run it like that. Get the springs tested so you know where you are at. Some assembled heads that fit the 5.0 come w/springs for high lift and a roller cam which means higher seat pressure.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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....just change the filter cutting it open to look for ...metal.....ok you made me say it.
and if it has dual springs it would have been a good idea as millrat86 said to remove the inners...I always use a stock set to brake in flat tappet cams then change them after I know the cam made it thru....
lets keep our fingers crossed........
and if it has dual springs it would have been a good idea as millrat86 said to remove the inners...I always use a stock set to brake in flat tappet cams then change them after I know the cam made it thru....
lets keep our fingers crossed........
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O.K. I've finally got a free moment. Been extremely buisy. Yeah, uh the springs that are on my heads are rated at 100 lbs. Forgot to check the block for the casting #. A roller cam would be something that I may be interested in later. I'm kind of not in the mood to change the cam again. LOL
I ended up removing the vacuum advance from my dizzy and goin mechanical. I figured that would eliminate the guess work. I think I have the curve pretty darn close. Scott a Cam Research said to go with an aggressive advance and that I should be all in at 40 degrees at about 2500-2600 RPM. I'm right in that neighborhood. My base is around 15-16. I'll have to tie into a heavy load to make sure. Tried powerbreaking it but it just wanted to smoke em'.
Hey HEMI, I finally cut the filter apart. I didn't notice any metal shavings other than what appeared to be from the hog saw. Still have my fingers crossed though.
I ended up removing the vacuum advance from my dizzy and goin mechanical. I figured that would eliminate the guess work. I think I have the curve pretty darn close. Scott a Cam Research said to go with an aggressive advance and that I should be all in at 40 degrees at about 2500-2600 RPM. I'm right in that neighborhood. My base is around 15-16. I'll have to tie into a heavy load to make sure. Tried powerbreaking it but it just wanted to smoke em'.
Hey HEMI, I finally cut the filter apart. I didn't notice any metal shavings other than what appeared to be from the hog saw. Still have my fingers crossed though.
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