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First Weekend Update

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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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First Weekend Update

There is some good news and there is some bad news. But I am kind of excited of the bad news.

First the good news. I had an exhaust system put in on Friday with an Dyno-Max muffler. The guy was honest and said it wouldn't make much of an "old skool sound", as I may have wanted but the extra horse power was worth the $30. Total $220 including labor.

Even better news. I just picked up my first mechanics tool set yesterday too. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
I know it's not MAC but it's always done my dad well and in fact he gave me his old drum tools because that's going to be an upcoming project. So with that tool set I did my first full tune up. Oil, Filter, and Plugs. The wires and cap we're fine so no changes there.

Now to the bad news. So with the muffler on I now noticed quit a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. So my dad looked at her and said I'm probally burning oil. And he says I'll need some new rings. But I don't think that is bad news for me because that means, this girl, is going to learn how to replace a rear end and dive into some heads. I can't wait!!!

When I have the money, of course.

Or should I be worried that my husband is driving that car 22 miles round trip each day?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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Very nice! Sounds like you had a great weekend!

If its not smoking too bad then you might be able to put of an engine overhaul for awhile. Before you got the truck had it been sitting for a long time? While you are driving the truck have someone follow you and note when the truck is smoking. Does it smoke at idle? during acceleration? while you are coasting? etc. This can give you some idea of what it the cause is, rings, vavle guides, etc

I actually made a bit of progress also. I got my battery re-located so that it will be recessed below the new bed floor I'm installing. I started the painfully slow process of making careful measurements and worrying and hand wringing that must be done before any cuts can be made on my donor bed floor (2005 GMC)

Bobby
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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Well "Ol' Smoke", that's her new nickname. Only smokes after a cold start and when I reve the engine really high. That's about it.

Does that sound ok for now?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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Don't sweat the smoke too much yet. The new exhaust pipe is coated with oil as a rust preventative. It should burn off soon. If its smoking when you accelerate and decelerate there might be a problem though. It usually takes someone following you as you do that with your vehicle to say when and what color the smoke is.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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You might want to do or have someone do a compression check on her. That will tell you what the problem is, rings or valves etc... I had a '62 that blew more oil than it used. Just make sure you check the oil regularly. Also, I had an uncle that was a drag racer and he left my aunt. When he left, he left behind a bunch of straight 40 weight and 50 weight oil. I used that for quite a while(he left cases of it) and it didn't blow as much oil after that. It's thicker oil and therefore won't blow as much. Only thing is, I took it to the mountains in the winter. The oil was cold, real cold and the engine wouldn't turn over. The oil got really thick like molasses. Ended up having it towed in and the mechanic at the shop placed a big kerosene torpedo heater in front of it to thin the oil and she fired right up.

All that to say just keep an eye oil the oil level.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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I think you could drive her for alot of years without worrying too much about it.

Heck, the poor ol' girl has a few years on her and deserves to puff a bit now and again

Bobby
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ilovegamesandcars
Well "Ol' Smoke", that's her new nickname. Only smokes after a cold start and when I reve the engine really high. That's about it.

Does that sound ok for now?
That sounds a lot like worn/leaking valve seals..............you can actually change those without removing the engine or the head........ the difficulty lies in the type/model of engine.
My theory....... as the engine sits oil runs down the valve stem past the valve seal and into the combustion chamber...then when engine is started oil burns off causing blue exhaust smoke on startup. On revving the engine......vaccuum increases and oil is drawn past the seals into the combustion chamber .....again causing blue exhaust smoke.
The seals are probably dried out from sitting....... I would put it on the to do list..... but not a big concern yet :-)
You should probably do a compression check to verify the integrity of the rings and valves........ but totally up to you.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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I promise to watch it like a hawk.

Thanx everybody. I'll follow up with some more questions later this week with my next weekend project.

(Hint Gages and Prep Work for Paint)
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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great job, cant wait to fire mine up maybe next weekend.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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I've owned a couple of trucks that had higher miles and were starting to smoke. One thing that really helped me out (and was suggested by a couple of mechanics) was to run the truck on 20w50 oil. The heavier weight oil will help cut down on oil burning and will also help quiet any extra rattles an old tired engine may have.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Follow Up the Smoke is Blackish/Grey. I did think it maybe the new exhaust system but with that new muffler my dad really thinks it's the rings. But tell me if he's wrong, please.

I just put in 10w30 but I will upgrade that oil per all you'all recommindations.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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Generally speaking on smoke color, blue is oil, black is gas, white is water. So if the smoke is black, your running the carburator too rich or you have a gas blow by of some kind. If the smoke is white, you have some kind of coolant burning(turning into steam). Blue smoke indicates an oil problem.

There is a trick that my father-in-law and uncle told me about that might help with inner engine build up. The trick is to run the engine, in neutral and rev the motor at a steady higher rpm and pour water into the carb. Not too fast to stall the motor. The water will go into the engine and basically steam clean it from the inside out. My father-in-law told me he used to have a guy that call up and say the car was running poorly and he would go with a couple of gallons, you read that right, gallons and pour it in while reving the motor up and it would clear it up. Both my uncle and father-in-law were mechanics for 30 years or better. I don't know if anyone else here on the bard has tried this. I have and it works.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 02:12 PM
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I've used the same trick, it works well for engines with alot of carbon buildup.

Basically run the engine in nuetral at about 2500-3000 rpm and dribble some water down the carb (don't pour in so much as to kill the engine) Years ago you could actually buy an add on water injection system.

Back in my days working as a mechanic (when there were still tons of old ladies driving the huge carburated land yachts) we would have several come in with their cars barely running. You'd pull a spark plug and they'd be brand new but covered with brwonishblack carbon deposits. We'd take the cars out, put the automatic trans in 1st gear and stand on the gas. We'd leave it like that, the trans would eventually shift (early TH350's and TH400's). There would be huge clouds of brownish smoke. After a few runs like that the cars would run great. Basically these old gals never drove their cars long enough to fully warm up the engines and if they did they never drove the cars hard at all.

You got to step on them once in awhile.

Bobby
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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Speaking of carb that is one thing the only thing I know I need to adjust and can't do myself. And this entitles another question.

When I start her I pull the choke all the way out to get her started. Then after a quick "almost" start I push the choke in but not all the way. After about a 10min drive it idles really high.

So my question is should my choke be pushed all the way in when it's warmed up? And what is making my carb run so rich when it's all warmed up? Anything I can do without taking it in?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Part of the chokes function is to raise the idle, so if the choke **** is pulled out a little ways then the idle will be raised.

The little inline 6 that is in my wife's Falcon is a manual choke. I start it much like you do. I pump it once or twice, pull the choke all the way out and it starts right up. After about a minute I start pushing the choke **** in, basically giving it less and less choke as it warms up. The amount of time depends on the outside temp.

With the engine warm you should have the choke **** pulled out at all. that could be causing your rich running condition.

Bobby
 
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