Looking over my truck and planning the work that needs to be done, I wondered if there were any special tools that might be needed. Just for a quick example: I had a 84 F150 with a 300 6 in her. You needed a thin walled 5.5mm socket for the spark module. Tools such as that. Will I need something like that for a 77 4X4 F150 Auto 400cu in.
Thanks AL

 

There are lots of different 'special' tools, it all depends on what really needs done. I think having a quality impact wrench for REMOVING stubborn bolts is important(don't install bolts with one). Most of the work can be done with standard set of wrenches and sockets. You won't find too much metric on your 77.

 

You need a special 4 lugged socket for the front spindle nuts and a threaded spindle puller and slide hammer to remove your spindle if you want to disassemble the front axle. Most everything else is just standard tools.

 

Thats what I mean Got Sand. I plan on stripping the frame sand blasting it. I'm doing a engine mod or build useing TMI parts. I understand good tools, but what I ment about that 5.5mm socket for the specialty tool is that, IF you don't have that spacific 5.5 mm thin walled socket you were not going to change that spark module and you would have a dead truck period. I've got the impacts and standard wrenches. The forks to pop the joints, but like GOTSAND said I don't have that 4 luge wrench. Anything else that you guys know of. I keep reading about the tips and tricks thats a great tread.

Thanks AL

 

IMHO, don't buy just any old wheel bearing socket with the four tangs (lugs). I have one with the regular lugs that stick out of the body, but I never use it anymore. I found one that uses the "hooded" design where the lugs are inside the socket itself. They don't stick out, so the socket doesn't slip off the locknut as easy. Looks like it's stronger as well.

I've never had to use a slide hammer to get the spindles off, but I live in a part of the country that doesn't get a lot of rust and crap. I just give 'em a smack with a big soft-face hammer and they fall right off. (knock on wood)

As for the TFI module, that little tool you might need is no major expense. For some reason I happen to have a regular 5.5mm socket that was made thin enough to fit. I suppose you could carefully grind a socket to fit, but the tool is only about $10. I've had to replace 4 or 5 modules over the years just on my own cars, so it wouldn't have been a bad investment.

 

For removing the steering coupler on the end of the column you will need a 12 point 12mm or 7/16" socket.


The 18 MM socket or wrench wasn't required until 1978.

 

Thanks Mil1on, see another tool that I need. I have that cheap little socket for the ISM on the 84 f150 300. I needed it more than once. But that is the stupid little SPECIAL only type of tool that you HAVE to have to fix that particular problem or remove or replace that one part. Any others.

Thanks AL

 

Don't forget penatrating oil, a sawsall, or possibly a torch. Rust bolts such as in the cab mounts, radiator support, and bumpers.


Also, not sure how much your taking apart, but for the seat belts you will need a torques socket (star pattern) I believe size T47 but I will look to make sure. Use a 1/2 inch drive, those bolts are tight.

 

I'm pretty sure 11mm is the equivalent of 7/16" not 12mm

 

you need a small 4 lugged socket to change the ball joints on the font axle

 

That's it ! ...... 5 mistakes in 24 hours. I'm going to bed

 

LOL :)

This should be "my thread" to kickbutton since making tools is what I like to do more than anything. :)

Here's two showing normalized files (were laying around waiting to become knives;)...

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/Ford9inch.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/Ford9inch-B.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/Ford9inch-S.jpg
That son of a gun needs a cheater pipe! :)
Since it won't just be used once but many times in a row. Ouch.
Normalized old file was drilled and tapped and the grade-5 bolts run up to the end of their threads then jam nuttted and bolts cut to size.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/...icbalancer.jpg
Slips between the pullys on my '75 360FE with PS and A/C just have to poke a couple 3/8" bolts through the holes.
It too might need a cheater pipe. The file was heated and bent ready to have a curved up tip to the knife blade.
Kinka tricky bending a piece of metal sideways like that and having it remain flat the other direction. ;)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/yoketool.jpg
Made from bed frame. :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in2.jpg
Two -straight- ~38" long pieces of 1+1/2" square pipe and two bricks and a tape measure. ;) That's one the best stinkin ideas iever came up with! :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/bushing&remover.jpg
7/16"-20 bolt with a nut ground in such a way that it'll fit through the hole and then just screw the both into the nut. "hard;)" The end of the bolt's been worked on so the threads won't get messed up. Since then I've switched to a 6303 sealed ball bearing. No more of them sorry bronze bearings for this "FE guy". :)

Store bought stuff...
You already mentioned a slide hammer. :)
pitman arm puller
power steering "pulley puller" (don't you dare screw up a good pulley;)
5/8" coarse thread bolt to pull (force-off) the A/C clutch
steering wheel puller
pickle fork
1+5/16" wench for the pitman arm nut
1+1/16" wrench for the spring bolts and nuts and radius arm nuts

Ball-type swivel socket in 5/8" hex and 1/2" drive if you've got a 2WD with a FE engine and a T-18? ;)

On my '75 F150 360FE with T-18 there are -no- metric fastners!
Only thing metric on the whole pickup is the bearings.
(inch-bearing inside the A/C clutch on my York compressor tho)

Alvin in AZ

 

The hooded socket works great on the older trucks, but the ones with the lugs that stick out of the body are more versatile. Thet fit both the older trucks, and the 80 something and newer trucks that have the single ratchet type spindle nut. The hooded socket won't fit the newer trucks because of the collar around the nut. Just a thought when purchasing the new socket?

 

Hmmmmm......it works on my '92 and my '86, but I haven't tried it on anything newer than that.

 

Does your 86 and 92 have the 2 spindle nuts with the lock washer between them?. Both my 86 pickup, and 86 bronco have a single spindle nut with a ratchet type lock washer, that my hooded socket won't fit?. I had to go out and purchase the style with the 4 lugs that protrude outside the socket body. The collar around the hooded socket contacts the lockwasher behind the nut, before the lugs engage with the slots in the nut. When I purchased the new socket, it stated that it was designed specifically for the ratchet type nuts found on Fords?