Fuel pump power issues.....
The 30 terminal is getting battery voltage when the key is on, which is the fused side in the power distrib box.
Is there a way to check on the other wires... according to the diagram they look like they go to the PCM and what not.
The main power wire coming off the Starter realy is fine also.
I'm going to check the PCM power distro box and see if anything is screwed there. Anything obvious to look for?
My friend told me it puked as they went over a bridge and i'm wondering since the wires that aren't getting power for fuel pump relay are going to the pcm is if a wire there broke. But i also don't know where the pcm is
Power comes thru fuse 19 to the pump relay then to the inertia switch then to the pump.
Try resetting the inertia switch before you tear anything apart.
It's above the PCM at the top of the kick panel.
May have tripped it trying to fly over the bridge.
The inertia switch is further down the line and not even effecting the prob, btw it was the first thing i checked when i went to give them a ride.
If not, you're troubleshooting the tail of the problem instead of the head. Since you don't have any power on the FP relay coil terms, I suspect this is the case.
How it works:
Key to RUN or start. PCM power relay energized via BJB F16. BJB F24 supplies C (30) term on PCM Power relay. When relay energizes, power is supplied to the PCM other places, and importantly, the 86 term (high side of coil) on the fuel pump relay.
The PCM, as part of it's boot-up cycle, grounds the 85 term (low side of coil) for two seconds. This switches the ALWAYS HOT power (via BJB F 19) on the 30 term to the 87 term and supplies the interia switch which supplies the fuel pump.
The fuel pump is only turned on for these two seconds until the PCM detects an accelerating crank signal during startup attempt.
If you need an electrical diagram, PM your email address and I'll send you a pdf file of the circuit.
Personally, I suspect you'll find that BJB F24 is blown. If so, you probably have an O2 sensor harness melted onto an exhaust component.
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; Mar 13, 2007 at 02:38 PM.
Last edited by Bluegrass 7; Mar 13, 2007 at 02:58 PM. Reason: Dup after edit.
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When the ignition is turned on, this causes the PCM to put out a ground for about 2 seconds then opens up until the engine is cranked. At this point the crank position sensor signals the PCM as well as the cam position sensor and causes the PCM to re-ground the lead to the fuel pump relay for starting.
Are you sure you still have a problem with these actions as given?
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Good guess on the CEL light, its not coming on with the Key. F24 in the Power Distro Box isn't blown though
Just was looking at things, not look like the o2's are melted but it is hard to tell. FOund one fuse that was blown and the was the F30 under the dash and in the owners manual says that is for PCM power also, so far no luck with replacing it as i still don't have a CEL key on
Last edited by 74F250; Mar 14, 2007 at 10:43 AM.
I noticed another mistake in my analysis above. I referred to BJB F16 as suppyling the PCM power relay. Should have read PDB F30, the exact one you said you found blown. I mistakenly substituted a connector pin number for the fuse reference designator.
A blown F30 would account for all your syptoms. If it blows again upon replacement, disconnect the RFI caps (there's one on each bank). There have been several reports of them shorting and killing the entire engine management system, exactly as you have described.
Steve
Steve
Yea it is blowing upon key on power
Yea it is blowing upon key on power
Steve
So I'm guessing they are the little black things with a single wire going to them, mounted on the front of the heads?
If so i unpluggled one on each side and it still blew the fuse upon the key being on for a few seconds......hopefully i jsut unplugged the wrong thing
Last edited by 74F250; Mar 14, 2007 at 12:40 PM.
Disconnect them all and see if you have shorted component or a wiring harness that has chafed and has shorted out to ground.
Yeah, that describes the RFI caps....
Time for a meter or test lamp, fuses have to be getting expensive....
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; Mar 14, 2007 at 01:24 PM.
The RFI wires going back to the harness also had some resistance, higher than what i would expect for a short.
So I'm assuming the COPS are the coils, thats the last thing i need to disconnect to check on it. Thanks for the help








