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I Had my oil pump replaced by the Dealership alittle more than a month ago, I have put less than 2,000 miles on the new pump and now it is having the SAME EXACT SYMPOTMS AS MY OLD ONE.
The oil pressure gauge is jumping back and forth when at idle but when I get some RPM up it stop and there is knocking at idle but it dies down as I get going faster.
This is exactly what happened last time, they replaced the pump and charged me $700. I wanna know if any one knows what kind of warranty there should be on a new factory part. And What I can expect when I go to Talk to the Service desk. Are they most likely gonna be helpful and not charge me again to do a Job they didn't do right the first time or are they gonna try and weasel their way out of it.
If the main bearings are worn you will lose oil pressure at idle,but it will come up as you rev the engine and the oil pump speeds up.I would put a mechanical gauge on and see what you actually have for oil pressure at idle and at speed.
Is that a lot to fix or not I have never had to deal with that? or should i try to get Ford to split the bill cause they missed it the first time around. I think that shpuld have run some sort of diagnostic or something.
my 88 bronco 302 does the same thing. I start it up makes a rattle sounds like a loud clunking from the motor, but the oil pressure doesnt come up until about 5-6 seconds later then it stays at the L where is says NORMAL. If I drive around for a little while when I stop the gauge bounces to no pressure but the motor still runs the same and no noise its weird and I probably have the same problem. I have 160K orignal miles so its probably time for a crate motor or a rebuild. I have a funny feeling my oil pump is going out or and I know the bearings are shot.
I had some work done on my transfer case at the dealership two years ago. When I had it done, the service manager told me there was a 1 year warranty on labor. I don't know if that will vary from one dealership to another, but it's worth asking about it. It'll save you quite a bit of $$, even if you have to fork out for the parts. Good luck.
I was examining my receipt that they gave me and I sort of remeber the service desk woman saying that the Tech was gonna change the bearing and now that I look at the ticket it doesn't look like he did. So that is hopefully what the problem is and all I will have to pay for is the bearign cause if there is a service warranty then I shouldn't have to deal with labor charges.
The bearing is a good possibility, but with all my experience with oil pressure loss, 90% of the time is was either the gauge or sending unit. I have had this happen to several of my vehicles, as well as friends, and I have only had 1 pump go bad.
Here's the deal. Took the truck in at like 8 this morning hitcheda ride to class came back and like 2 hours later the dealership calls and says I am all set after saying that it wouldn't not be done until at least tomarrow.
The Diagnosis: The 5 weight oil that Ford now uses wasn't so apprectiated by my engine. apparently I burned of 3 quarts in 1,600 miles. So they charged me nothing for looking at the truck and nothing for the 3 qts they topped off the engine with. I went to Wally-World and bought some Mobil 1 syntheic 10w and I am waiting for my engine to cool down so I can replace it.
Cheap fix I guess. Hope thats what the problem was. What are your thoughts 3qts in 1600 miles seems alittle excessive to me but hey as long as the 10w works i will play along.
I am having the same problem with my 90 5.8L. I had the problem with the truck right after I bought it and it went away after I changed the oil to 20W 50. Now I am having the problem again after the engine warms up and I am at idle. I have also been noticing that I have a squeak coming from the serpentine belt area and the water pump, alternator, power steering pump etc. are all new within the last 6mos. I can't figure out where the squeak is coming from. Could this be the bearings the other posts are talking about? The oil pressure gauge goes from the normal range to Low and the engine light comes on when I idle and the engine seems to run normally. I am stumped. Any help would be great.
Hey Guys, before you go to too much expense DO NOT trust the Ford gauge it is not much better than an idiot light. Get a real oil pressure gauge at the parts store and check what your pressure is, this is only way to know for sure. The pressure gauge should be under $20 and will be well worth it.
Rick
86 302 EFI, bored 60 over, AOD,
Headman Headers, Flowmaster 40 series,
2 inch dual exhaust, MSD ignition