OK so far i currently plan to get the plentum ported to match the 302 TB....get the heads ported and polished(should the runners and plenum get that done to them also?) , 302 fuel injectors and some flowmaster exhaust. I need some input from you guys that have done some of or all of this stuff and is there anything i should look for when i have the engine in pieces on the garage floor?

 

Well the FIRST thing you Need to Know is this, P&Ping on Any FoMoCo Inliner Should Be ONLY MINIMAL!
Because if you take To Much Off, You've Just Defeated why you are doing it in the fist place.
Look in my "Gallery" to see what upgrades were done to mine.

 

If your thinking low rpm improvement, I wouldnt worry about touching the intake or adding the 302 tb or the injectors.

Like col. flashman pointed out, youd probably want a basic port job.

Do you have emissions testing, how far you wanna take this build?

 

Outside of St Louis Missouri doesn't have emissions testing. Independence is part of the Kansas City Metro.

 

My brother worked at an emissions testing facility for 3 years. He quit like just last year. He said at the time (which probably hasnt changed) it was st louis and jeff city have emissions requirements. everywhere else in missouri does not have emissions.

 

i dont have to do emissions testing and i have a friend of a friend do my inspections. So just about anything can go with this. I alredy have the 302 tb bolted on i just need the plenum enlarged to match the size of the tb. I dont wana spend a ton of money on this but on the other hand i plan on keeping this truck for a long time. I'm also going to do alot of suspension work to it and try to locate a hd clutch for it. What my goal is....i want more get up and go but also want some more grunt for towing.

 

The tb and manifold are not the airflow restriction. The head itself is the main problem.

Assuming that your drivetrain was manual from the factory then your head should have air injection. The journal for this severly restricts how much the intake bowl can be opened up for more flow volume. A head from an auto application (pre 95?) should not have air injection journals though.

The other debated subject is larger valves. The factory chamber has the intake valve shrouded to induce swirl for improved saturation and quicker burn. The most common advice is that to unshroud the intake, even for larger valves, usually has a negative impact on the volumetric efficency of the small chamber of the EFI head as compared to the same being done to an older carb design. At least my searches have not turned up someone who has had positive results.

Basicly, without segnificant porting the stock intake maifold and throttlebody are more than sufficent to supply demand.

Unless your planning on a high lift/duration cam and/or high revs the 19# injectors aren't necessary. If your set of implementing them you'll need a chip programmed to tell the computer they are there. Without the tables being remapped you'll most likely get error codes for too rich out of range. Some have gone to adjustable fuel pressure regulators to bring them into range with varying degrees of success.

Your best bang for the buck will be a mild cam. I wouldn't go over a 260/272 duration without changes to the computer.

Next make sure that your exhaust is not restricted and the O2 sensor(s) aren't fowled.

 

Dont sweat the efi air injected head, it can be ported.

19903024X4

Take a look at this build up, this is kinda where you would want to be, you would definitely benefit from a higher compression ratio but you'd have to crunch the numbers, go too far along with the wrong cam, and your destined for the expensive gas at the pump.

(may need to copy and paste)
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.p...highlight=dyno

 

OK so what i gather is i would be better off with a head from a pre-95 automatic truck....port the head a little and the TB...no shroud on the intake valve...no need for the 302 inj....and a cam under 260/272 duration....and i'v alredy learned on an air density engine the k&n filters do no good so a stock ole paper filter is the best way to go?

 

Kinda.

You CAN port your air injected head, the one you have. No idea where SR got the idea you cant.

Dont worry about unshrouding the intake valve, your looking for low end grunt and maintaining stock valves and retaining the combustion chamber shape. Your NOT interested in all out flow, your just looking to make the engine perform better in its current rpm range. IMO, your more interested in a basic port job, clean up the bowl area, clean up the ports, remove the air injection (thermactor) bump from the port. You will probably not want to go any finer than a 60 grit on the intake ports. You can polish the exhaust and combustion chamber to your hearts content, but on a street engine this can be a waste, as it will carbon over soon enough.

Do a search on the net for basic port work, look at the pictures, get an understanding of what is being done, while the cylinder head will be different, the idea is relatively the same, when it comes to basic port work.

You might consider a three angle or multi angle valve job, again, you will read about this when you read about basic port work and increasing flow, you can determine how you wanna approach it from there.

There is a chance, when you use the larger TB and open the intake, that your gonna throw the computer off slightly, when your engine is in open loop mode. As obviously, the larger TB will flow more for any given throttle position. In open loop, your computer is relying on a predetermined air/fuel ratio and sending fuel accordingly, not having any other way to adjust, its gonna run a little leaner. Which may not be that bad, but it should run leaner in any case. Others have done this mod with no immediate side effects, long term, who knows? Its just something to think about.


You might consider headers, just be aware, your gonna have to weld an O2 sensor to the headers and do something about the egr down tube, if you wanna retain emissions function. Silver streak and optikal illusion have gone into detail in this, just ask them.

 

Didn't say that you can't. You just can't enlarge the bowl very much on the heads with air. I came across one person last year, I thought on here, that found out the hard way that at one point the wall was only about .080". For a street truck all you really need is to mild blending of the bowl and a polish of the intake runner an chamber.

Motorhead351. The Longbed lightnings head is an EFI w/o air. But that didn't matter since automotivebreath only blended the bowl and didn't go for more. Actually illistrates what I've been trying, unsuccessfully, to say. In either case LL appears to not be happy with his results so far. I suspect that has more to do with his injectors/fuel pressure than it does the head work or cam selection. Custom programming like he's talked about should help.

I've come across a couple places that had collectors with O2 bungs already installed. Just don't recall where but a quick web search should locate them. EGR is an issue with headers, it can be solved.

19903024x4, Not under 260/272. That's what the Crane 503901 is and several people on multiple boards are actually please with it.

My suggestion is this:
Your not wanting to aggressively increase the airflow. Just blend and polish the port bowls and maybe polish the chamber and runners and call that good.

Go with a Crane 503901 or equivilant cam.

Opinions vary on weither or not to replace the valve springs, I would.

Lifters are required with a new cam.

Pushrods also.

Rocker arms depend on condition of current ones. Stock ratio if you do, let the new cam function as designed.

Timing Gears. For your app stock replacement should be fine. Cloyes metal if you want.

If your pulling the block:
Replace all bearings. Cheap insurance at the price.

Oil pump too.

After that it up to you how for too go and what your budget will support.

 

You never polish the intake ports of a cylinder head. You want it rough to keep the fuel suspended, otherwise it clings to the port walls. Otherwise I agree, you just want a basic port job, you will also wanna shape the material around the valve guide, just dont remove it.

Longbed lighting has issues beyond whats been done, you got that right, if hes unhappy with his hopped up six, then hes been playing with his lightning too much.

Your reference to thin casting wall, I believe comes from this statement:

3. Due to a design flaw there is not enough iron behind the valve seats to install larger valves. If you reach into the bannana cooling holes at the rear of the head with your pinky finger you can gage what I am talking about. Heads I've measured have only .080" thickness in this critical area, with stock 1.78 valves.

As found in this thread:

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25296&highlight=crossflow

Its not referring to an air injected efi head.




The headers your referring too are made by clifford performance. You can purchase a dual outlet headers (two three into one) or you can get the single outlet (six into one header), both available with O2 and smog connection. However, if you want true long tubes or the longest dang I-6 header available for the six banger, your gonna have to modify a set designed for carb applications.



19903024X4

Another cam option. You can contact either PAW performance or ask for a mellings camshaft from your local autoparts store, they should only have one to offer, they are the same. Its a $50-60 dollar cam, col. flashman used it in his build to achieve 300hp and a nice 400tq figure. Its been used in efi applications without issue.

If you wanna lean toward torque, there are smaller camshafts than the 260H grinds, you can find them at isky and comp cams. A higher compression ratio would really help in your search for more power. You could also get an adjustable timing set and install the stock cam straight up, thow in higher ratio rockers, you have options.

If you really wanna get on top of the game. Take some time and learn everything you possibly can about fuel injection, it would be worth your time to invest in a standalone efi controller. Megasquirt is a very cheap and effective means to accomplish this. Is it required, no but it gives you total control over your engine, something worth checking into. Should you become interested in having your modded efi engine tuned, you might find few places interested in reprogramming your ecm. They are out there, just expect some initial disappointment and expect to send someone your computer. You might get a piggyback chip to work. (your computer does not have a removable chip)

Good luck

 

oh my, what a thread LOL

Longbeds issues stem from other areas IMO. he is going with headers and a new cat, he suspects it is blocked from running to rich when he added larger injectors. i talk with him on a regular basis as well as Rhetor who did a mild build on his 300. he didnt go as exotic on the head work and is satisfied...for now. both are talking about 460 swaps down the road...

motorhead351, i forgot about that thread...great info. wonder when FSP will be done with thier alm head.

 

Dunno, I sure would like to see it.

You have any hear say as to the plans? Target flow, etc etc.

 

Well i cant thank you guys enough all of my questions have been answered and i even got some ideas. the standalone computer sounds like a good idea. And i do plan on havin the engine out.....everything under the hood on the floor. Maby i could just get a shortblock and build from that?