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Burnt valves can come from blown header gaskets. Leaky manifolds at the head too. During decleration, cool air can be sucked back into the exhaust port and tear up an exhaust valve. Much like putting hot metal pieces into cold water, often they will crack.
I find it hard to believe the valves are that fragile. How do they survive being doused with a cold air/fuel mixture on every intake stroke then?
Lx, that was the explanation that I got too, which is why I have been a little weary about putting on headers. I've heard that the thicker the flange is, the less they're going to warp and cause this problem. Also, I've heard of guys cutting the flange at the far front and back clylinder and leaving the two centers connected, that way, each part of the flange flexes individually
burned / cracked valves can come from exhaust leaks at the head - i have seen and repaired many - it is most common on engines with short exhaust runners and leaky gaskets / cracked manifolds - it will not happen overnight - but after many miles of neglect - as for the heads - pick the ones in your price range - better flowing heads mean more HP / TRQ - the stock heads can be ported to flow well - but not great - as many aftermarket heads will flow great out of the box - but you could always port them to flow more - - then the cam / intake will hold you back -
Install even a cheap set of headers and keep the bolts tight and you'll have no warping. Also helps to use a quality gasket like the aluminum sandwich type. Loose bolts will finish any header and gasket.
Also, I've heard of guys cutting the flange at the far front and back clylinder and leaving the two centers connected, that way, each part of the flange flexes individually
Just what I thought... Chevy guys trying to explain why the POS GM motor died!
This is very much a non issue on FORDS, each exhaust port gets 2 bolts.. one on each side unlike GM and Dodge small blocks where the center ports are clustered together and only get 2 bolts total.
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