Positive Engagement Starters
I've been going through about one a year. they work fine for a long time and then I start having to turn the key 2 or 3 times to get it to kick into the ring gear and then 5 or 6 times annd then 10 or 15 times until one day it seems to not kick in at all except occasionally.
I've posted about this thing a year or so about this thing and read a tond of threads an having no luck. I've done just about everything I know of doing to stop this. Doesn't matter if the battery is old or new and the starter never completely stops tunrning, just won't engage.
I don't think the RG is bad but I can't see it so will have to wait till I get another starter to check it out. I've looked in the opening with the starter out and it looks fine to me. If I put a new starter in it works fine for a yar or so so if the RG was bad I think I'd see this sometimes with a new starter.
Most say it's a grounding issue but I've direct wired the case of the starter to the battery and that hasn't helped at all. I've checked voltge drop, no problem, got a new battery, voltage reg is a couple of years old, ignition switch is new, alternator is new, it's tuned up, hell I'me clueless. Even putting new tires and wheels on it didn't help. LOL
My personal opinion is this is the nightmare issue for these trucks. Why put something in a vehicle that is so sensitive to electrical problems. I think I would prefer a big fat bendix type starter than these things.
Agents working for rebuilders buy starters by the gross from wrecking yards. They are taken in hand, checked over, the bendix is replaced...if necessary. To clean the starter internals, which are rarely taken apart, they are immersed in a bath of solvent. When dry, they are painted (in some cases) and into boxes they go, and are sold to various parts houses. Retail prices can be as low as $15.99.
Most starters and alternators sold by the fly by night outfits, and some national chains are crap, and the retail prices reflect the quality.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 10, 2007 at 04:58 PM.
The one dying in there now was new
The others were rebuilt
I thought the same thing before buying the new one
I'm going to throw something in here that I forgot yesterday. Don't know how I forgot it since it's crazy. :-)
I was stumped so I got out a socket and turned the crank shaft a bit. Started fine a couple of times. Starter started it's spinning thing again. Turned the crank shaft again. Started fine a couple of times. Starter started it's spinning thing again. Turned the crank shaft again.
This didn't work every time but often enough to be curious.
This would certainly make one think that it's a tooth and gear issue but the increasing frequency of the issue with age of the starter would discount that, no? I don't recall seeing any wear issues on the starter gear although I'll look a lot closer this time.
Man, I have just got to get rid of my full time job. It's eating into the work time on my truck. :-)
Why the heck didn't Ford put a pull cord on these 460s? LOL
This c6 has got to come out of there for replacement reall soon so I'll have the opportunity to replace the RG if necessary.
When I get the exhaust system changed out I'm going to request they put a big bend in the pipe around the starter. :-)
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I just pulled the starter and I measured:
- the gap between the dust cover on the front of the transmission housing to the face or the ring gear
- the distance from where the starter fits against the dust cover to the center of the starter gear with this gear fully extended
I can't find my small metal rule but the measurements look like this (hope what you see is what I type:
---------- (SG)
------- (RG)
It looks like at full extension there should be enough integration surface to work. However there is some wear-off on the tips of both gears.
If full extension isn't what the starter is built to do then it mayy be that the teeth are being worn off and that's why it's doing what it's doing. That doesn't explain full why a new starter works exactly. I would think in proper design the two gears should mesh full across the full width of the RG.
If this starter doesn't engage the RG correctly then this starter is not correct for this engine/transmission or something about the truck is built incorrectly although workable.
Has anyone run into this and kow of a starter that will fit that will cause the gears to mesh fully? I can't change the RG right now. :-(
If I had a starter that would extend farther that might fix my problem. Maybe it isn't eletrical after all.
I don't remember seeing any spacers/washers on Ford starters.
Header's cook starter's all the time. If you have headers you need a heat shield for the starter.
I made a post about starters in the old Tips & Tricks thread.... that has been removed for some reason.
What are the numbers on the case of your starter Dave ?
They gave me a new one because the old one had lost the bearing for the shaft on the nose end. So that could explain some of this.
But I measure the extension of the starter gear like it would be when pushed into mesh with the RG. It' s 3/4" from dust cover contact face. The center of the RG is 7/8" from the dust cover face.
So it looks like fully extended I'm getting msyn 1/8" to 1/4" of mesh. I need about a 1/4" to 1/2" more extension to get a full mesh between the two gears.
So something is out of whack. AA claims this is the right part number for this vehicle/engine/transmission. The motor stampings seem to indicate this engine came out of a Lincoln. We pulled a Lincoln starter and it dind't match bolt holes and had the same extension distance.
Can't find my stampings list right now. :-(
I guess I'll hav to wait till I pull the tranny for replacement to know if there is a spacer of some kind in there. If this is the right starter I guess it will have to be something like that.
Going out to install this one. I'll let y'all know what happens (if it doesn't kill me LOL)





