engine alignment
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2006
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engine alignment
Iam getting ready to put a 302 in my 50 F1 and I need some help. The truck has a MII. How do I go about leveling the engine fore and aft? Should I set the frame at ride height and then level the engine off of the carb pad on the intake? or do I set the frame level and then the engine level to that? I dont have an intake for the motor yet so can I level it off of the front and rear intake rail? Some intakes ive seen have the carb pad angled a little.
Or is it really not all that critical? I realize this must has some affect on pinion angle when I get that far.
Thanks
Or is it really not all that critical? I realize this must has some affect on pinion angle when I get that far.
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
You need the frame level and an intake on the motor. You can then level the carb pad. The engine will point down at the rear, toward the rear axle. Any other method is a crap shoot. You rally need an intake on it.
I would also have your steering and headers on the motor. That way, you can shift it, if necessary, to the passenger side so the headers clear the steering, if that is necessary. My 56 has an MII IFS and the engine is centered left-to-right, so yours might also wind up that way. There is plenty of room for the 302.
Good luck. And welcome to FTE!!!
I would also have your steering and headers on the motor. That way, you can shift it, if necessary, to the passenger side so the headers clear the steering, if that is necessary. My 56 has an MII IFS and the engine is centered left-to-right, so yours might also wind up that way. There is plenty of room for the 302.
Good luck. And welcome to FTE!!!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
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From: NM
Randy, I agree in general with what you're saying, but it really isn't true that the frame "needs to be level" when this is done. It needs to be at the loaded ride condition (engine weight on the suspension). With an MII suspension conversion, God only knows what that will be.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
You need the frame level and an intake on the motor. You can then level the carb pad. The engine will point down at the rear, toward the rear axle. Any other method is a crap shoot. You rally need an intake on it.
Good luck. And welcome to FTE!!!
Good luck. And welcome to FTE!!!
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Freshman User
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So is it frame level or ride height? I guess thats what my problem was I asked a couple people and got a different answer from each. Im thinking ride height would be the best, but it must not be a big deal? I dont have a lot of parts I would need to be able to set the truck at the exact ride height but I could probably get it close.
Last edited by Fomocosho; Mar 10, 2007 at 07:51 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Ride height would be perfect. Ride "rake" would be more specific. The problem comes in when you try to establish it with engine weight and you're also trying to mount the engine. I suppose you could put some temporary supports across the frame, lay the engine on, take measurements (ground to frame), then duplicate the rake at a better working height. However, as Vern said, it rarley makes much difference. The important thing is to use the intake carb plane to establish the angle of the motor to the frame.
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OK, thats what I thought, Ill ditch the ride height idea and go with the frame level, I ordered a intake this morning so Ill be ready mid week.
Thanks
Thanks
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Frame level
I put a 5.0L EFI in my 50 F1; with MII front suspension. I have about 2-3" rake down in front. I set my frame at what I thought to be finished ride angle then set my engine at as close to level as possible. With EFI it is not as crucial as carburated. I also set the engine 1 1/2" offset to passenger side to clear manifolds and steering. I think I have about 4 degrees to front U-joint and matching at rear U-joint. I have run the engine no problem; but have not road tested drive train, hopefully this summer.
Tom
Tom
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Clean & Classy
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Riverside CA..
Originally Posted by 4tl8ford
No matter what you do all it will be is "close", the suspension wil "settle" for several hundred miles after you start driving.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Fomocosho
So is it frame level or ride height? I guess thats what my problem was I asked a couple people and got a different answer from each. Im thinking ride height would be the best, but it must not be a big deal? I dont have a lot of parts I would need to be able to set the truck at the exact ride height but I could probably get it close.
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Freshman User
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What is leveling the carb pad actually doing? Since most roads arent flat I was under the impression it would have a greater affect on driveline alignment rather than engine performance. Is this true?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by Fomocosho
Iam getting ready to put a 302 in my 50 F1 and I need some help. The truck has a MII. How do I go about leveling the engine fore and aft? Should I set the frame at ride height and then level the engine off of the carb pad on the intake? or do I set the frame level and then the engine level to that? I dont have an intake for the motor yet so can I level it off of the front and rear intake rail? Some intakes ive seen have the carb pad angled a little.
Or is it really not all that critical? I realize this must has some affect on pinion angle when I get that far.
Thanks
Or is it really not all that critical? I realize this must has some affect on pinion angle when I get that far.
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
True and false. The engine and transmission are normally angled 2 degrees down for driveshaft alignement to the pinion which is 2 degrees up. The carb pad is then level so the carb bowls will theoretically have the same amount of fuel in them. You can verify your driveline angles with a inexpensive magnetic protractor before you hard mount the transmission crossmember. It may take a few washer to act as shims on the transmission mount bolts to get the correct angles. The first link shows what I am talking about but with more detail. The second one really gets into detail.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html
