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This is my setup:
53 F100
Ford master cylinder and power booster (from a Maverick?)
Adjustable proportioning valve
Front disks from a '95 Dodge Dakota
Rear drums on a Ford 9".
I have the proportioning valve turned down all the way which equals a 35% reduction.
Symptoms
The brakes grab really hard but, during hard braking the rears lock up and the fronts dont.
What I have tried Adjusting the proportioning valve both ways.
What I don't know Could fill a book...
I am not sure that the lines are plumbed correctly
The line at the front of the master goes to the rear brakes and the one at the rear goes to the front. I have wondered if it should be the other way around, but haven't found any pictures on the net that confirm or deny the thought.
I have heard that I can put an inline restricter to the rear brakes. I have searched some of the popular manufacturers (baer, wilwood, brembo, etc.) and haven't found any yet.
I am open to ideas and opinions... Help me if you can.
am not sure that the lines are plumbed correctly
The line at the front of the master goes to the rear brakes and the one at the rear goes to the front. I have wondered if it should be the other way around, but haven't found any pictures on the net that confirm or deny the thought.
Does the M/C have a large and a small reservoir section, or are both the same size? One with equal reservoirs is for drum/drum, one with a bigger section and a smaller one is for disc/drum, and the big reservoir is for the disc side.
Please clarify which is the "front" of the M/C, since it is likely facing backwards (like stock)
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Mar 10, 2007 at 07:04 PM.
If you have the pedal assembly/booster/mc under the floor as in the original pedal location then you should have residual valves in the lines, 10 psi to the drums and 2psi to the disks. Wilwood is a common brand name and any street rod or hot rod supply store can furnish these. www.SpeedwayMotors.com has them and also a diagram of a typical system in their catalog.
It's frosty time. I think all questions are good. I read every new thread each day. Some I know or have done in the past. Some I have forgotten or need a refresher. Some I've never tackled. I've installed a m/c near top of the firewall, but not under the floor (reference this article). I appreciate all reviews, starting very basic, there are always new builders and old/new me. Thanks to everyone who takes the time to enlighten us. Everyone have a great day, chuck
Last edited by 49fordpickumup; Mar 10, 2007 at 08:07 PM.
Here is a picture of the setup. I confirmed that the large resevoir is plumbed to the discs in the front.
From your replies I need to; find a day job and research a combination valve. If anyone wants to point me in the right direction I will appreciate it. Until then I'll search the site and the internet and see if I can get a degree in combination valves
Here is a link that will help explain a majority of your questions as to why your rear brakes keep locking up. I have installed a combo valve from an online vendor, see pea pea(say it out loud), that cost $45. I haven't had any issues with sensitve brakes. I hope the link helps.http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake2.htm
Last edited by airharley; Mar 10, 2007 at 11:33 PM.
Reason: spelling
Your master cylinder is plumbed correctly. You don't necessarily need a combo valve. A combo valve just adds a warning light and a metering valve which delays the front disc till the rear brakes grab.
It all depends on your how "hard" your braking. If these are like a panic stop then what your experiencing is normal. Since there is very little weight in the rear of these trucks, it is much easier to lock the rear up. This is why many trucks just had rear ABS brakes. If I hit the brakes hard I can lock the rear brakes on my 4 wheel disc brakes on my car.
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