Front Crankshaft Sal
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,243
Likes: 16
From: AZ
Front Crankshaft Sal
Well, I have a dreaded oil leak 
...it is the front crankshaft seal (I cleaned and checked twice...it is the front crank seal, of that I am sure). I can't complain though, it is the first oil leak in eight years. Anyway, I am wondering if anyone has done there own front crank seal replacement, does anyone have a write-up or links to a how-to (I have the shop manual write-up), and what special tools did you have to get your hands on before you changed the seal? I am not in a hurry to do it, probably will live with the leak until early summer. Thanks, in advance, for any and all advice!
...it is the front crankshaft seal (I cleaned and checked twice...it is the front crank seal, of that I am sure). I can't complain though, it is the first oil leak in eight years. Anyway, I am wondering if anyone has done there own front crank seal replacement, does anyone have a write-up or links to a how-to (I have the shop manual write-up), and what special tools did you have to get your hands on before you changed the seal? I am not in a hurry to do it, probably will live with the leak until early summer. Thanks, in advance, for any and all advice!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,600
Likes: 3
From: Carhenge
Yes, I have replaced my front seal. You need the tools to remove the fan and harmonic balancer, the old seal, and to press the new seal into place. I was able to do it with a strap wrench and large channel lock pliers to remove the fan, a gear puller to remove the old seal, and a very large homemade washer and some pipe spacers to press in the new seal with the balancer bolt. Probably the biggest challenge was getting the harmonic balancer back on, you can't quite get it on far enough by hand to catch threads on the balancer bolt with the thick stock balancer washer.
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
You can also just remove the oil pump housing. It's the housing with the 4 bolts holking it to the block. The seal is pressed in the front of the housing. The job is not that bad. Takes about 4 hours for the novice. You will need to remove the upper radiator hose and fan shroud. The fan and the balancer. Hope this helps you.
New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
It's a piece of cake. I recommend getting a low pressure oil pump from ITP diesel. It was $70 and it comes with oil seal and new oil pump. Ford will take $25 of you money just for the seal. I also found that the housing was missing a chunk out of it. The housing is $125 but does comes with the seal. New everything for just $70, can't go wrong. I even think it comes with the o ring for the back side as well. This way, you don't have to deal with removing the seal, just requires removing four bolts. My one piece of advice is to make sure you tighten the crankshaft bolt to EXACT specs. I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 220 lbs so I gave it just a little extra. I pancaked the seal. If I remember correctly you just have to remove the belt and the fan clutch. You can get the radiator shroud out of the way if you want too. It should take about 3-4 hours if that. Mine took 2 days because of stupid mistakes and waiting on parts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1998Ranger25L153CID
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
3
Jan 6, 2015 01:51 AM
sand_fiend
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
4
Jun 17, 2012 09:50 PM
Xclimation
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Jul 22, 2011 10:54 AM
santacruzf250
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
26
Jul 6, 2009 07:46 PM
mike L
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Mar 27, 2008 12:48 AM
