I will get my notes tonight with the exact voltage's. and report tomorrow to ya. This is hard for me to explain it to you. I have got voltages from the battery and the coils, When starting cold and after startup. So I'm confused at this point and need my notes. Thanks

 

http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html

here's a little 'light' reading for you 32822. It's a little technical, but it describes your EDIS or Electronic Distributerless Ignition System. I've read threads in the past where guys discussed problems with it.

There are electronics involved that may go bad or like Pawpaw said a couple of times, you may or probably have bad connections in that circuitry. It's a good idea to clean up ALL the connections in that system. It's not an old truck, so it should be a pleasure.

There's been several times where I and others could'nt pinpoint a fault, but when we just cleaned everything up including connections, the problem cleared itself. You get "Don't know exactly what it was, I just cleaned up the whole system while I was under the hood".

Hope it helps
Fred

 

Yeah, sounds like there's resistance in the like somewhere. Bad ground perhaps, loose/dirty connection probably. If the 200 cranking amps will get it going but the 900 on that other battery couldnt do it your forcing enough current past the bad spot to start it. After running around during the day put your hand on some of the connections and see if they feel warm/hot. If they do thats the culprit. As a bad/high resistance connection creates heat.

 

Thanks Guy's. I think your in the right spot, Only now i need to find it. Just to answer some question's on voltage's. Battery voltage in the morning is 12.27 V. Coil is 11.81 V.While trying to start in the morning The battery drops to 10.3 v the coils drops to 10.20 V. the vehicle will not start ( NO SPARK). after starting with the 200 amp boost, and running for 2 to 5 minutes the coil voltage is 14.2 V, after running for 5 minutes vehicle shut off with the key on, the voltage at the coils is 12.8 V, and last when at night the battery is 12.72 V and in the morning it is 12.48 when disconnected, when connected it is 12.27 V.

 

Ok at night the battery is fully charged when at 12.72 VDC, If it set disconnected over night & reads 12.48 disconnected, accross the battey posts, it's between a 85 & 90 % charge, so it's lost somewhere between 10 & 15 % just sitting, disconnected, overnight, or you have a shallow surface charge on the battery..

Then when you hook it up the 12.48 VDC reading drops to 12.27 VDC & thats a reading that says the battery is at 60-70 % charged with what ever parasitic load is on it & thats a 30-40 % drop in charge, from your night reading.

Doesn't seem you have much voltage drop to the coil pack when cranking & thats a good sign for it's electrical hook up.

SO, with the battery voltage droping from 12.48, to 12.27, across it's posts, just by hooking the battery cables up, it seems to me you likely have a battery problem & or, a system parasitic drain problem.

If all the vehicles electrical things are turned off, when you reconnect the battery cables & they spark noticeably when you hook them up, then you have a sizeable parasitic electrical load & thats not normal.

You could remove the B- battery cable & rig a 12 volt test light in series with the B- battery cable & the battery post & it should lght up if, the parasitic drain is sizeable.
You could then begin pulling fuses until you see a noticeable drop in lamp brighness, to isolate the circuit with the most leakage.

If you don't have a test light, you could use your multimeter, IF you believe it's AMP range is high enough to handle the parasitic load. If your not sure, then use a test light, as a over current could damage your meter, or blow it's circuit protection fuse, if so equipped.

OR, you could just take this puppy by your favorite autoparts store, tell them what the symptoms are & what you've found so far & let them do a no cost electrical system check up, with their portable system tester. Properly used, it can run this problem/s down.

Yup, you could have more than one problem. May be a battery with a leaky cell & something in the electrical system, like leaky diodes in the alternator, or some aftermarket piece of electrical equiptment, ect.

Just because the battery has been replaced or tested recently, doesn't automatically make it good now.
If you find the battery is bad, DON'T let them do a 1 hour high curent, quick charge on the new battery. Take it home & do a slow overnight charge at say 4-6 amps, to bring it up to a good low temp, deep, full charge on it's plates, the battery will appreciate that!!!!

Let us know how the troubleshoot goes.