Y block rebuild

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Mar 7, 2007 | 10:06 AM

dreamd0g

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Joined: Mar 2007

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Y block rebuild

i just got my 239 block back from the auto machine shop, bored it .030 over, Agee pistons .010 on the crank, new cam & lifters, and thanks to this website I now own a set of ram horn manifolds. I am going to assemble the engine this weekend and I was wondering if anyone knew of any literature on the web or otherwise that might help a novice with this task,(only the second engine I've ever done, the first being a Chrysler big block in 1980). I'm sure I could get through it okay but a guy just can't have too much useful information if ya know what I mean. Thanks, Steve.

Mar 7, 2007 | 10:44 AM

Randy Jack

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Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 4,190

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From: Riverside, So Cal

You should post this question on the FTE Y-Block forum. You are certain to get the latest book info there. Also, as you rebuild it, if questions come up, they are likely to have answers ready. Other 48-60 Y-block officionados here will be along soon. Link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum56/

Mar 7, 2007 | 11:00 AM

Brian_B

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Joined: Sep 2005

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If there is not enough information in our Y-block forum (is that possible?), check out Y-blocks forever as well.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/

We need to keep as many of us on the road as possible!

Personally, I have never been further down into an engine than the lifters. I replaced an oil pump from the bottom end once on a 351W. That is all.

Mar 7, 2007 | 12:17 PM

Dave58

Senior User

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 193

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From: Lakewood, Colorado

I picked up the Shop Manual for my 1958 F-100 and am impressed. All of the specs for the 272 and 292 motor used that year are in the shop manual. I ordered mine out of the LMC catalog if memory serves me well.

Mar 7, 2007 | 12:25 PM

bigwin56f100

Lead Driver

Joined: Jul 2003

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From: AKRON ohio

I was just going to suggest a service manual. Especially for the timing chain install. Its not the same as all the other v-8's. Also the head bolts are different in length. I cant tell you off the top of my head where the shorter ones go but one needs to know this stuff before assembly

Take your time, keep things CLEAN, check, check, and recheck as you are assembling.

Kevin Bigwin

Mar 7, 2007 | 12:59 PM

WALFORD'S 56

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From: oh

Listen to BIGWIN--He races a yblock and knows his stuff.

Mar 9, 2007 | 05:12 AM

Walston

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Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 2,575

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From: Greenville, SC

Make sure you plastigage all the bearing and rods on the crankshaft. Get some engine assemebly lubricant from one of the car part suppliers (they have plastigage also).

Jim Mummerts site is helpful http://www.ford-y-block.com/yblockpage.htm

You need a shop manual, there is also a book called Y-Blocks that covers the entire process in great detail. I can't recall the author right off hand, the guys on the Y-block forum know him.

Make sure you use a split lip seal for the rear crank shaft seal and not the original rope seal. follow the seal directions exactly.

Take you time, if you haven't already, I recommend having the heads done at a machine shop.

The Manual and Yblock book are very important IMHO. This engine has some unique things about it, especially the way you assemble the timing chain gears.

Good luck

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Mar 9, 2007 | 07:41 AM

e william

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Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 929

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From: S.C.

FYI....I rebuilt my 239 and used a Felpro gasket kit...the kit was good but didnt have the exact head gasket that I needed for my heads (water ports were in wrong place). So be sure whatever kit you use matches up with your heads etc... and check against your old stuff as well. I also had ordered an oil pump rebilt kit initially that was entirely wrong, ended up changing the dizzy to a 55 unit that came off a Mercury (hex drive) and bought an new 55 oil pump to match.
As far as bolt locations....I have always used a piece of cardboard to draw out the engine, heads, brackets, etc.. and poke holes to put the bolts into so that I can match up the new hardware with correct length and location. Things always seem to look so much different when the are cleaned and painted...this makes it alot easier to reassemble correctly.
Good luck with your build.......
Ed