1960 F100 adding 429
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From: SF Bay Area
1960 F100 adding 429
Hi all.... I am just starting to restore my dads F100. My first job is removing the Chrysler engine he installed & replacing it with a 71' 429 & C6.
It looks like a tight fit, & I think I am OK except for the radiator. Has anyone done this conversion? What radiator was used?
Thanks... Bryan
It looks like a tight fit, & I think I am OK except for the radiator. Has anyone done this conversion? What radiator was used?
Thanks... Bryan
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From: SF Bay Area
Thanks... I will look into that. I was measuring with the mopar radiator, & it didn't look like there would be enough space. I haven't seen the original Ford rad for many years, so I wasn't sure where it fit in.
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From: Utah
You Will have to mount the 429 as far back as possible or you will run out of room. I know there is a dodge truck rad that will fit but you have to modify the support. I can get you some pics of another one I am doing right now that is in my shop if you want. Good luck and post up some pics of what you have.
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From: SF Bay Area
Yes, please post a few pics when you can.
I have a friend with a '59 that is apart right now, so he is bringing up his rad on Sunday for me to see where it fits.
This pic is with the engine about 3/4" from the firewall, & the mopar rad is in backwards to place it as far forward as possible. If I add the fan, it is about 1/2" away from the radiator. Too close for comfort.
I have a friend with a '59 that is apart right now, so he is bringing up his rad on Sunday for me to see where it fits.
This pic is with the engine about 3/4" from the firewall, & the mopar rad is in backwards to place it as far forward as possible. If I add the fan, it is about 1/2" away from the radiator. Too close for comfort.
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I have considered electric, but only if I have to. I have had bad luck with electric in the past, but I am sure they have improved since then. I would be much more comfortable with a good clutch fan.
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I'm bringing this one back up because it seems I was right about the electric fan. Its been mildly cold here for the past month, & I find the electric fan is just barely keeping up. But on days like today, its mid 70's here, & while the fan can keep the temp down under 200, its not enough to cycle. I would like to get this fixed before summer hits. I should add that this is only an idle problem... When the truck is moving it is never a problem.
I'm using a summit racing aluminum radiator & have cut the support to move it as far forward as possible. This is the fan:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...08-3/overview/
The engine is 1/4" away from the firewall, & as you can see, there is no room for anything else.
Are you guys using direct drive fans? I was hoping to stay away from that, but it looks like I might have to.
I'm using a summit racing aluminum radiator & have cut the support to move it as far forward as possible. This is the fan:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...08-3/overview/
The engine is 1/4" away from the firewall, & as you can see, there is no room for anything else.
Are you guys using direct drive fans? I was hoping to stay away from that, but it looks like I might have to.
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From: Simi Valley, CA.
The fan as shown in the picture is doing almost no cooling when the truck isn't moving. It's a complicated issue, but the short explanation is that moving air will choose the path of least resistance. The only air moving through the radiator core is doing so in circular vortices around the outer rim of the fan housing, like a whirlpool of water in a drain. And then you're only moving the air that's already heated.
As opposed to when the truck is moving forward, then the cooler outside air is being pushed uniformly across the whole core.
You need a shroud that covers the whole core face, with a cutout that funnels the air for where the fan is mounted. The tighter the gaps the better, and the fewer places for air to sneak through, the better your electric fan will perform.
As opposed to when the truck is moving forward, then the cooler outside air is being pushed uniformly across the whole core.
You need a shroud that covers the whole core face, with a cutout that funnels the air for where the fan is mounted. The tighter the gaps the better, and the fewer places for air to sneak through, the better your electric fan will perform.
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I understand what you are describing, but that does not seem to be the case. There is plenty of airflow through the rad, with no flow coming back around the fan.
I have already tried the Taurus fan, but no room. The current fan is 3" thick, while the Taurus fan is 4" & has the wider shroud that you are talking about... but it would not clear the pulley. If you look closely, the pulley was already hitting the fan, untill I installed solid motor mounts.
What I would like to see is a short-shaft clutch fan!
I have already tried the Taurus fan, but no room. The current fan is 3" thick, while the Taurus fan is 4" & has the wider shroud that you are talking about... but it would not clear the pulley. If you look closely, the pulley was already hitting the fan, untill I installed solid motor mounts.
What I would like to see is a short-shaft clutch fan!
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From: Greenville, SC
I assume you have this fan set up to pull. Is there room for a bigger fan on the front and have it set to push? I don't think a clutch fan is going to solve your problem, it will move less air than the electric at idle. I also think the shroud comment has a lot of merit.
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No arguments on the shroud at all... I just don't see how without cutting the side of the fan off. There is no room to move it back & add one under it.
I was thinking of going to 2 smaller fans, one high & one low. But all of the smaller fans I find would be less CFM that the one I have now, even paired up. On summit, the twin fan kits with a shroud are all 4.5" thick.
I was thinking of going to 2 smaller fans, one high & one low. But all of the smaller fans I find would be less CFM that the one I have now, even paired up. On summit, the twin fan kits with a shroud are all 4.5" thick.