Well, here is what I have, I just purchased a 1989 F250 4x4. It has Auto trans 5.8L. 121k on the clock. I have a few problems mainly the rear main seal and the ignition.

The truck runs great when it runs. You see the ignition switch does not respond right in the "run" position. I was told to change the tumbler as it may have some wear on it. Anyway, you can drive the truck, but only if you apply pressure to the switch. You have to turn it towards the start position and it will make contact. If not, you loose all electrical power, gauges, spark etc...

I bought a Haynes Manual, I am mechanicly inclined (i rebuild my 88 chev truck) I just am not familiar with Fords at all. Here is the problem. The manual for the truck says to put the key in "run" and depress the cylinder release pin with a very small screw driver or ice pick. Then the cylinder should pull out. Installation is reverse of removal.

THERE IS NOT A HOLE FOR SAID PIN ANYWHERE ON THE COLUMN!!!!

THE D[at]MN THING DOESN'T EXIST!!!

I think I am going to replace the switch as well, but before i drop the column to do that I want to get this replaced. Only thing I can figure is that I am going to have to pull the steering wheel..... I really don't want to do that.<!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_800185-->

 

I had simialar problems with mine. Turned out that the switch had slipped on the column a little. Under the cover for the fuse block, remove the plate that goes across the steering column so you can get to the switch. There are 2 1/4" (+/-) nuts that hold the switch in place. Loosen them a little and slide it up and down as needed.


Good Luck,


Dave

 

make sure that you are reading it right for the right type. Our trucks (1987-1990) dont have that nice little pin for a quick in-and-out thing, we gotta take more off

 

Okay, so I guess I have to pull the wheel. I think I read it right. I read the whole chapter. It's just pretty vague.

 

You may save yourself some grief if you can run your hand on top of the column (have to move the access panel for the fuses). You'll feel the actuator rod that works the switch. If it's intact and moves with the key without being sloppy, you probably just need to adjust the position of the switch without the headache of removing the wheel.

Have fun.

 

First disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Here's a picture of the pin you need to press when the igniton cylinder is in the on position. The ink pen tip is pointing to the pin. You don't need to remove anything to pull the ignition cylinder out.



Here's a picture of the ignition cylinder. You can see the pin that needs to be pressed before you can pull the ignition cylinder out.



As mentioned by another poster, most likely your problem is part of the actuator is broken.

 

Well, I got it fixed. It was definitely the switch at the base of the column. It had actually separated. I am supprised I was able to drive it home like that. I did drive it about 45 miles holding the key, wow was my arm tired!!! Anyway thank you all for the suggestions and whatnot. I'm glad I have just fixed my first 4x4 and my first FORD! Anyway, next on the agenda is the rear main seal leak. I'm concerned about it, but it's not an immediate concern. I have a thumping in the front of the truck on the drivers side going over bumps. I don't know if it's a ball joint or what it is.