Today I noticed that I had a bit more rust then normal around the rain rails of my truck. I guess I pulled my head out of the dash long enough to notice that is. I've had to keep my truck in the driveway until the Contour's head is reinstalled. So I decided to chip away at the "sealant" that was in the rain rails. Well it turns out that the previous owner used bondo/tub caulking to seal them. After chipping/grinding/sanding for 3 hours I now have several holes that need to be patched. Not to mention a few more areas along the underside that need a little TLC as well. From my rough estimate I'll be welding in one 16" x 1.5", one 22" x 2" and several 6"x 1" strips of replacement sheet metal. My wife was looking at me strangely when she came home. I was using packing tape to seal the area off until tomorrow when I can start welding. I don't want mositure from the rain or dew to get into it any more then it already has over the years. I can't believe how much corrosion was under all the bondo though.

My plan is to keep chipping away at the exfoliation corrosion until I get down to solid metal again. Once that is done, use a wire wheel/sanding disc to clean the area even more to have a surface to weld on. Looking at the way the roof panels are joined, it looks like the rain rail and roof edges are spot welded together after being stacked on top of one another. Can anyone verify this? I would like to run a weld along the entire length of the replacement panels and then fill in the rest of the stock seams as well. Thanks for any replies.

 

Mark, I had to have heart bypass surgery last summer, things just don't work forever.

John

 

Mark, do you plan on doing away with the drip rail all together? Now is the time to do it. I was going to do that if I had the same issues as you do but mine turned out to be clean only needing to be re-sealed. good luck.

 

Had simular situation w/ roof rail on 65, took grinder, then wire wheel to remove rust and loose metal and found few pin holes along the rail. Must admit, used Evercoat filler, yes bondo, to solve the problem. Not sure which type, either 'tiger hair', 'rage', or something simular. This was 10 yrs. ago and assume more advanced products are on the market today. Anyhow the repair job is holding up very well. That being said, looking at pics in the assembly manual, as poorly as the pics are, it appears you are right, looks like the roof rail is tacked to the brace running along the inside of the cab and the roof edge is then tacked and welded to rail. Unfortunately, the manual does not depict what type welds are used to assemble. Probably won't know until getting into it, perhaps another member has more info and experience.

dave

 

John I had to vent a little of my frustration. I know the truck is older then I am by 10 years. To be honest I think it's in better shape then I am at times.

Robert to be honest I am torn. When I first bought the truck I thought the rain rails were ugly and troublesome. Now, 5 years later, I like them because of the character they add. Welding the repair panels on without them would be so much easier and reduce the chance of them rusting again. With that said I am going to leave it and weigh the pros and cons of both. I'll give it until Monday to decide what I want to do.

Thanks guys.

 

that is one of those decision that sounds like you will regret either way you go.
look at it like this though....if you try to leave them on, you can always take them off later.

 

Well in preperation for removing rusted metal and possibly the rails I took a trip to Harbor Frieght. I love that store at times. This weekend they're having a sidewalk sale. I ended up buying a air body saw, 10 blades, 4 welding magnets, a paint touch up gun, and a digital caliper set for $40. That should be able to get me through to appling the primer in a few days or so if I take my time and fit it all correctly. I just wish I owned a metal shear/roller/brake.

 

So far the roof patching is going ok. My Lincoln Welder is doing a pretty good job of keeping me from screwing it up too badly. I decided to keep the rain rails in favor of keeping the look and a little measure of stopping the rain from running down inside the cab door openings. Most of the rust is removed from under the roof. I hit the underside with weld through zinc primer as well. I am off to do some more. I'll keep everyone posted and throw some pics up after I am done with the passenger side.

 

Came across article in April 07, CarCraft magazine, 'RustBuster' where a company has devised a machine using duel spool zinc metal feed where the gun is used to melt the zinc and apply the metal as a spray. Operates at very low temp. and there is no warping. The article was on a rusted out rear window panel. Thought it was kinda interesting but would have to tow the car couple hundred miles to have it done. Need the experience so intend cutting out rust in weld in patch, now only have to decide which mig. Anyhow, thought it was interesting article, if should pass magazine stand my want to take a look.

dave

 

I read that article not too long ago myself. It would be nice to see the machine at a bunch of auto body shops by next year. I don't remember what the cost involved to apply it though.

 

Assembly manual , you have one? Where on earth did you find one?

 

Purchased the "1965 Ford Truck Body/interior Assembly Manual" thru MotorHaven, the FTE online parts store, but apparently has change its format and now "powered by "AutoAnything". Went to the site and could not find anything related to literature, manual, or anything else. Wish I knew how to post pics to gallery or I would put up few pages to get an ideal what manual consist of. The Manual is published by JIm Osborn reproduction inc., 101 Ridgecrest Drive, Lawrenceville, Ga. 30245. Tele#404) 962-7556. officially licensed product of FoMoCo. Couple minor issues, manual are reprints so some of the smaller print difficult to make out. A minor issue, wish the manual would have been specific regarding size fasteners used for assembly but usually provide quantity of fasteners with the part number. Looking to purchase the appropriate Ford truck parts number locator CD. There are numerous illustrations to include description of seam sealer type, color and location. Anyhow, found publisher's website. If anything specific info you are looking for post, or email.

http://www.osborn-reproduction.com/c..._Position=PAR:

dave

 

I am feeling your pain....the things people will do with Bondo.......
When we did my roofline....we realized that there was a ton of bondo that wasnt even close to be the shape of the roofline.

You can see the chunk of metal we took out in my gallery.... (my pig).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=68715&width=0
Reformed all the drip rails, did the lead solder route & it looks sharp as a tack now.!

 

Work on my truck came to a screaching halt today. Wearing protective glasses and a welding mask I managed to have a piece of metal penetrate my left cornia. It dropped in between the glasses and my face. So now I am as blind as a bat until I can get the rest of the metal out tomorrow. Oh how I dislike delays. I guess I will pick up where I left off this weekend.

 

I hope you get that metal out. don't let it stay there very long. Just one of the hazards of grinding. good luck be careful.