86 Eddie Bauer Bronco 351W 4bbl C-6 for sure-numbers verified. Seller of truck told me that the bell housing had been broken off of the tranny and rewelded. He drove the truck for approx. 6 mo. before parking it, and said it ate 3 or four starters. When I went to get the truck I took a starter with me-brand new. It got colder, darker, and I said screw it I'll bring it home on the lowboy. Crawled under today and dropped the new starter back out as it sounds horrible bad. By the way, the starter I took out of it to return for core, the gear on the bendix had about half of it missing, and I don't mean stripped teeth- it was broke! The starter still looked ok, just some metal shavings in the cone. Put it back in and tried to start it again for a few minutes. Now it will not spin the motor over and sounds really bad!!!! I expect to pull it out and it will look like the core I returned. I pull it out and it is apparently meshing pefectly square right where it should, because every tooth has approx. a fingernail thickness shaved off in just the perfect spot. Checked the flexplate-looks new, and seller told me it had been replaced. Went to advanced auto and laid a 351W and a 302 flexplate back to back-no difference. Double and triple checked that I have the right starter. I can clearly see on my transmission the weld where it was repaired. Called another friend at an auto electric shop thinking maybe I might get a slightly bigger dia. bendix gear. No such luck. How can the bell housing weld job be off this far and the tranny still function correctly? I know that the torque converter has forward and backwards play, but this would not be forward and backward problem for the starter. It's in the right spot perfectly, just sitting what about 5/16 too far away from the block. SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!!!! I am not retarded when it comes working on this era of truck, look at my sig, been there done that. Thanks in advance to all. Hey Khemicalburns, You ever heard of anything like this? I was thinking of oblonging the ears on the starter, then filling the voids with JB Weld. Any ideas anyone? Sorry for the long post, I was trying to paint a complete picture-and avoid 1000 questions.

 

Come on-nobody? There are so many people who have way more experience than I do, of that I am sure. Does the post need to be moved? How do I do it?

 

don't know for sure but it may be the torque converter is the wrong one. Did the previous owner have that changed when the bell broke? If a smaller diameter converter has the same pump and spline as a lager one it is possible.

 

I don't follow how that would affect the flexplate, and in turn the starter. PO stated he drove it for 6 mo., so tranny functions properly. What I mean is if the converter was a smaller diameter, then the flexplate wouldn't bolt to it right? Flexplate has already been verified to be the correct one. Am I missing something?

 

Is the indexing plate between the bell and engine? Sometimes they are left out and are there to index the starter.

 

And here I thought I had done such a good job giving all info. That's why I love it so much here. You guys don't miss a thing. Ha Ha Yes sir, it is there and not mangled in anway. And thank you for taking the time to try to help, it is very much appreciated. I bought this truck to replace momma's explorer, and so far she has been excited and taking an interest. That's one of the reasons I want to get past this issue.

 

Well ya can't notch the holes and gain anything cuz the indexing plate will holed it centered.
Sooooo I am thinking if there is no way that the weld could have changed the indexing of the starter than somehow ya got the wrong ring gear or something in there ain't right. I'm thinking ya got ta pull the tranny and see what is wrong. Bad thing about a C6 is ya can't just change the bellhousing.

 

What part of the bellhousing was welded? Something has to be affecting the alignment of the starter to the flex plate. I'm guessing the weld was close enough to the starter hole that it warped it a few thousands enough to make the starter drive bind when it engages.

I think you have 2 options -- replace the tranny or machine the starter flange to angle the tip of the starter out away from the flex plate.

 

It was welded about 4-6" back from the bolts/guide pins, all the way around. Arctic- we have triple checked all the parts from 2 different part stores, I agree 1000% with what you said. This just makes no sense at all. The indexing plate should have it in the right spot. I can't see how the tranny can be off enough to cause this and still perform normally. I seem to be running out of hair to pull out. On the bright side, I amm getting pretty fast at dropping a starter!

 

is the moter plate on or off the moter i had installed the wrong one on mine and had to shim the starter out an eighth inch had the same problem that your having alot of noise and messed up teeth on the flywheel try a washer on the two starter holes between the starter and the trans sounds like your slammin the gear into the flywheel .thats should bring it out to stop the bind that your getting. good luck ps it might take 2 washers on each whole to get it

 

Yes good call. I can remember having ta do that also. I would recomend grade 8 or stainless bolts as mine broke after a wile on an FE.

 

I was thinking about this and again looking at the starter. I guess you could say that the wear marks do look a little uneven, but only about 1/16" at max. I thought I'd get about four washers, and play with different combos till I found what works the best. I was freezing the other day doing this, so I am having motivational problems getting up to go try it this morning.

 

Eat a half dozen Halipinos. That will motivate ya. And warm ya up also. LOL

 

After much cussin and discussin a frriend of mine and I decided were we tired of this and we were going to get it right. Ended up replacing the flexplate with the one that we were absolutely and for sure was the right one. New, from the parts store that is. We also replaced the bendix so that we had new gear to new flexplate. Now it cranks great, not even half as noisy, but I still don't think it sounds like it should. It doesn't matter anyway, the only thing that could be replaced now is the trans., and I am not gonna spend that now. I am still not convinced that the welded bell housing could affect it like this, as the index plate puts it where it should be. I had to make it crank right so I could mess with the screwed up carb, I think it has a stuck or bad float. When I hit the key after completing the flexplate project, it actually sat and ran-rough-for about 20 seconds. My buddy can rebuild these edelbrocks with his eyes closed, so he took the carb off and took it with him. He took one look and said nope it's too dirty. I want it clean and right, then we procede from there. He'll clean it up and put it on his car to get it right, then bolt it on mine for minor adjustments. A special thanks to arctic Y block for helping me think this thing through logically. I guess an 8 dollar bendix and gear every six moths isn't too bad until I can get all the other issues fixed. Thanks again to all!!!!!!

 

Still like the man said. stick one flat washer between the starter and bell. If it is right leave it. If it is better but not right than add another washer. I have seen the time that it is the only way. But think about the strain on the bolds that arent seating as deep. Because of the washers. And consider longer tougher bolts. Ya can be doing that while yer waiting on the carb. LOL